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Diminished Gluteal Syndrome

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Infirmary


1 votes

Foaming at the Mouth 5.13a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Symon Ardila, Dustin Stephens in 2016
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Romp up the dihedral to a low crux in the hueco-like feature followed by jugs that go on forever and then another crux at the top. Back-cleaning the first two draws reduces drag.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
dihedral (1) classic (1) exposed (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.63 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (24 votes)

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Submitted by: Kens
Date: Apr 2nd, 2018


dustonian said on May 23rd, 2016
AKA Night Nurse. Reportedly more like 13a.
JR said on June 5th, 2016
Is this the one with 3 perma-draws on the bottom 1/3?
symardila said on June 6th, 2016
Yes JR 3rd, 4th, and 5th are permas. It's best to back clean the first two or clean them on TR
JR said on June 7th, 2016
Thanks symardila. I also back cleaned the first couple of draws. I little bit of a pain but probably worth it. The route is a beast. Super fun finish on this one. I would give it 13a too.
dustonian said on June 7th, 2016
Beware of meniscus-shredding heel hooking at the bottom crux haha
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2016
I've seen her foaming at the french gym
dustonian said on June 7th, 2016
The name came from a bat living in the jug at the end of the first crux... hopefully it won't be there when you throw to it
climb2core said on March 27th, 2017
So... I hate to be the "did something break guy" but... The low crux was ridiculously hard. There were to decent pad crimps to grab after leaving the jug. After that the was a very bad sloping pad pocket that had some chalk on it. A bit below that was a fresh scar where it looks like a decent crimp could have been. There was also a largish chalked hold at the base of the route. What was you beta through the crux?
ray said on March 27th, 2017
When I did it there was not a good crimp. From the start holds ( good edges) I had to go right hand way out to a crappy pinch, shuffle feet, then huge bump to gaston the jug. Felt about V5 and super reachy.
climb2core said on March 27th, 2017
Ok, pretty much positive that crappy pinch is gone.
ray said on March 27th, 2017
Lol not possible. It was just pinching the corner feature. Barely there. It may have even been a really shallow pocket for the fingers. I was able to it without that hold but it was low percentage.
pigsteak said on March 27th, 2017
you just became that glory in getting old....
Willy said on March 27th, 2017
C2C- I broke that chalky hold at the base. It was part of the giant jug that you start out of the hueco on and didn't change anything. Crux isn't ridiculous you just gotta jump old man!
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2017
Yeah, I didn't think that was the crux hold that broke. So you are telling me you jump all the way from the 2 pad crimps you have above the jug ledge to the clipping hold at the next bolt? That is like a 4 ft jump on a 45 degree overhang.
dustonian said on March 27th, 2017
I believe the hold you're missing is further right and hard to see. I was able to do the move almost statically with a right heel-toe, but I would not recommend than beta based on what it did to my knee.
Willy said on March 27th, 2017
4ft?? I doubt it. Its a reasonable dyno off two decent holds to a jug then another small jump off two decent crimps to another jug. V5 if that. All the more static options I've explored seemed way harder.
climb2core said on March 27th, 2017
You show me the beta and I'll buy you a 6 pack
Sandymalone88 said on June 3rd, 2017
Great route! The 2 bolt section right after the boulder problem felt the hardest especially when I was promised jugs from the description. Too many semi-crappy holds to choose from. Then you get the jugs.
sigrah said on March 12th, 2020
This is easily a 4 star rock climb with 5 star movement(a few mank holds make it a 4star climb IMO). Honestly felt like a harder and better version of hoofmaker at the motherlode. They are both very similar in nature so if you enjoy that style of climbing than this is the climb for you.