Texas Tea

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

Block and Tackle

0 votes

Vitruvian Moon 5.10d (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Art Cammers, Jeff Castro, Kenneth Johns in 2017
Length: 85ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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From Texas Tea follow the cliff to the right, ducking under a low roof. About half way to Block and Tackle look up at a thin crack in a wide dihedral on a ledge, which is under an S-shaped crack opening into an offwidth. This line was ignored until 2017 probably due to the apparent lack of protection for 25 feet, but has a small pocket (BD 0.2) and a horizontal (BD 0.75) for openers, with good protection the rest of the way. Reserve a BD 3 or BD 6 for the OW bottom, and a BD 5 for the OW. The OW ends at a beautiful, circular hueco (diameter of about 2.5 meters) in which one can comfortably Vitruvian Man stand. With finger-sized pieces, protect the hueco and top out at a stout evergreen.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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4 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (2 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Oct 17th, 2017

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Oct 17th, 2017

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Oct 17th, 2017


caribe said on October 17th, 2017
I scrapped my way through the crux cleaning vines and debris as I went. I got a #3 at the top of the OW run out 15 ft. Very scary ... a #5 protects the OW. This route could be a classic. The hard moves are at the first 1/3 of the OW, but after a little traffic it could feel easier than the suggested grade. Have fun on this one; I did.
caribe said on October 17th, 2017
#4 works deep in the OW also.