The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Dunkan Rock

Tom's Route

0 votes

Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Tom Seibert, Larry Day in 1974
Length: 130ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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From the main corner of the wall, hike left past some small corners to a hancrack with a roof about 15 feet up. Climb the crack to an alcove, pull the overhang and follow the handcrack to a ledge and belay or continue to the top via an offwidth of sorts.
Walk right along the ledge to rappel with one rope.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.07 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (25 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


climbhigh said on October 10th, 2006
awesome view from the top !! fun route and will open a new trad leaders eyes and pucker thier ass.
Myke Dronez said on September 22nd, 2008
new nylon 9/08- whats it say when theres slings' o plenty hanging from a tree halfway up and absolutely nothing at the top?
TIT said on March 22nd, 2009
very fun, classic, did in 2 pitches. fun overhang at bottom and nice OW on second pitch
ahab said on November 23rd, 2009
it sayz that dunkan rock hosts mutant rats.
rjackson said on November 30th, 2009
A 70m will get you to the ground in a single rap.
Sco Bro said on November 28th, 2010
Treason at the Watchtower can be seen from the second pitch of Frenchburg. Look to your right and you'll see a large pine 40 feet from the top of the next point of rock. That's the belay station for the final pitch.
dustonian said on August 3rd, 2012
Super good. No anchor on top tree...bring webbing & quicklinks for the rap or walk climber's right to the anchor above What's Left of Beeneling.
LK Day said on April 3rd, 2014
Blue jeans and jungle boots, baby. And of course, no cams.
DirtMcGirt said on September 14th, 2015
Solo onsight.
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2015
Good for you dirt. nobody gives a shit.
DirtMcGirt said on September 14th, 2015
Why so hostile?
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2017
Sportiest trad climb I've followed. Well worth the hike.
Smiles said on November 7th, 2017
What a fun route, if you can hand jam the overhang is no problem. Didn't use anything smaller than 0.5, nothing bigger than a single #5. Save a #3" for the top. A 60m will get you down in 2 drops, landing on the first belay stance. My GPS for this are N37 50.652' W083 38.409' It's a must do, but don't wait too late in the day, that return hike is no fun in the dark.
MikeWilkinson said on May 2nd, 2019
Fun climb. Easily goes in 1 long pitch, but consider breaking into two pitches (obvious tree belay) to reduce rope stretch in case of a fall on the roof moves. Cord and webbing at anchor tree is a bit worn but held a rap, rapped in 2 just to be safe as trees were snagging ropes.