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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Joe's Route

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Dunkan Rock

 The Beeneling

4.
+2
2 votes

What's Left of the Beeneling 5.10c (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders in 1983
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk around the corner to the right about 200 feet from Frenchburg Overhangs to a pair of unique looking cracks. This route ascends the crack to the left of the acute dihedral. Begin in an offwidth, climb to a chimney, take the chimney to some fists and end with hands. Master it all.
Rap from the top of Frenchburg Overhangs with two ropes.
Moves: Fists
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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5 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (19 votes)

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10 comments {add your own comments}
1
ahab said on November 23rd, 2009
whatsa matter fellas? afraid to rate the route and be called out as weak? c'mon, i really what to know the consensus on this in order to properly evaluate my magnitude of suck...
2
SCIN said on November 23rd, 2009
It's been awhile but I don't remember the grade being off. I think people with smaller hands need to dig a little deeper on stage 2 though.
3
Wes said on November 24th, 2009
Didn't John say something about boxing gloves? 10c just like the battlement and The Specimen are 10c.
4
512OW said on November 26th, 2009
Agree with Ray. This was early in my 5.10 climbing, and didn't feel any harder than any others... and my hands are smallish. Only one or two rattley fist jams comin out of the chimney, and your legs are still locked in. The rest of the route is 5.9.
5
ahab said on January 19th, 2010
that's what i was looking for, thanks for the feedback. this climb should be renamed "Ipecac".
6
dustonian said on August 3rd, 2012
Stellar physical climbing!!
7
dustonian said on August 4th, 2012
Multiple BD #4's useful... must be a burlfest for the small-handed!
8
kman154 said on July 21st, 2013
Super Awesome route, great fun. protects great.
9
gpowellhb said on October 12th, 2015
Just too good. That approach and descent are worth it just for this thing.
10
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2017
There are anchors on the top of this now. GPS for this N37 50.651' W083 38.364'