What's Left of the Beeneling

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Dunkan Rock

Treason at the Watchtower


5.
+1
1 votes

The Beeneling 5.9+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders in 1983
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the acute dihedral to the right of What's Left of the Beeneling. Climb the left side of a boulder to access the ledge on which the route begins. Fingerlock and stem the dihedral until it thins. Then either smudge to the top or step right to the arete to find a hidden hold.
Rap from the top of Frenchburg Overhangs with two ropes.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.52 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (23 votes)

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Comments

1
Legion said on October 6th, 2003
Unfortunately, the tree that used to serve as the rap station for this climb has been cut down. You can walk over to the top of Frenchburg and rap with two ropes as an alternative to using the stump.
2
SCIN said on November 1st, 2003
Felt harder than 5.9+.
3
the lurkist said on November 24th, 2004
I decked from thirty feet off of this route in 1986 with Terry Acomb. I could have been dead but walked away with a sore back. Terry still calls me "Crater Hugh".
4
climbhigh said on October 10th, 2006
tough climb. maybe it was just a high gravity day but i got my ass spanked ! great route , go do it. i know i will be back.
5
RRO said on October 10th, 2006
you can also rap from a tree climber left of WLOTB. We put the rope high on a large branch and pulling the rope was not an issue at all. it was a cut 70 so im not sure if one 60 would work or not.
6
mazzystr said on September 2nd, 2007
the Beeneling went down today. I popped at the final jug...pulled three C3's in the final crack...flew at least 40ft. I was about 6ft from the platform. I passed the lead onto Bandanna Matt. He onsited with mostly pre placed gear. The route is brutus. See the thread where I posted my protesting the 5.9 rating of this route... /Chris C -The Lobstr-
7
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2007
definately not a 5.9+ if the old school ratings are soft then your a f****n trad daddy, solid 10b not stout but solid
8
512OW said on October 2nd, 2007
9+. I got a no hands rest at least every third move. Its not a gym route, fellas...
9
Myke Dronez said on September 22nd, 2008
that it's not. against the wall and spread em'- you know how to do that right?
10
mazzystr said on May 24th, 2009
I bagged this route today redpoint first try. I've been eyeing this route for years and attempted is once before. It feels reeeal good sending something this difficult.
11
caribe said on November 30th, 2009
This is my proudest send to date. I found it very tough indeed! The moves are different than the usual Red. Flashed it mainly due to +vibes from friends below. I was breathing like dog at the vet.
12
cliftongifford said on April 18th, 2010
this route's basically a chimney with some fingers mixed in...
13
dustonian said on August 6th, 2012
really cool route that could use an anchor. not much but choss up there now.
14
DirtMcGirt said on September 14th, 2015
Solo. Thanks for the anchors.
15
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2015
You are a dumb fuck. Go fuck yourself.
16
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2017
Thanks anchor fairy! We weren't sure if there were anchors or not because that comment seemed somewhat trolly. We were happy to find them.