Creature Feature

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

Phantasia


2.
+1
1 votes

Twinkie 5.12a (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder in 1992
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk around the corner about 150 feet to the right of Creature Feature and up a steep section to a flat area of rock. You will see two bolted routes ascending the steep face. This is the route on the left. Climb the slab to the overhang to the anchors.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
steep (2) juggy (2) beautiful (2) vertical (1) fun (1) pumpy (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.82 stars (105 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (69 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: FreeSoloist
Date: Oct 8th, 2018

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 8th, 2018

Submitted by: Ebrain
Date: Dec 4th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: May 11th, 2015

Submitted by: tyler.yarbrough
Date: Aug 9th, 2013

Submitted by: jfc1005
Date: Jan 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 5th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 5th, 2010

Submitted by: edmclen
Date: May 28th, 2010

Submitted by: SeanStone
Date: Nov 17th, 2009

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Tunica Intima said on November 1st, 2003
I have dreams about routes like this one. Classic!
2
KenJo said on March 22nd, 2004
crux is the slab...very fun climbing!
3
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
I love it when you get to the top of the slab, and lean back and look at the roof... it seems to go on forever. Then you take a deep breath and start yankin'. And you gotta dig that no-handed bat hang near the top!
4
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2004
very good route, onsite
5
peterbonamici said on June 9th, 2004
excellent first 12, onsite
6
haas said on July 6th, 2004
my buddy and I lead this in the dark, the start was spooky by headlamp but the jug haul at the top was fun
7
climberdude99 said on August 5th, 2004
good route, onsight. screw the bat hang, who needs that.
8
Anonymous said on August 22nd, 2004
Someone who isn't as cocky as you.
9
dbrayack said on November 19th, 2004
Wow, you're calling the crux the slab!! Man, there's a couple slopey pockets up in the middle that felt rought to me.
10
Gaar said on May 23rd, 2005
Man if your grabing a sloper then your holding on to the wrong hold!
11
Sco Bro said on June 19th, 2006
The slab's easy, one 5.11a move. It's holding on through that amazing roof that gets me every time.
12
Stewy911 said on June 19th, 2006
hmm very enjoyable route except when you fall at the anchors..........but definately one ofmy favorites in the gorge......
13
Wes said on June 22nd, 2006
How the hell do you fall at the anchors? Are you skipping the huge rest for some reason? Killer line, fun, techy slab followed by nice big hold steepy goodness.
14
Stewy911 said on June 22nd, 2006
I guess I didnt get it all back in the rest I didnt batman hang it I just threw a heal up and shaked then when I was going out to the last hold on the right beofre you hitt he jugs at the anchors I hit some slopey nastiness. I came to find out that if I hit the hold to the left it was a huge sidepull. Anyways it was a cool route.
15
Wes said on June 22nd, 2006
Ah, you can can a pretty good left knee bar thing on the right side of the ledge. Big holds for your hands, and you can fully recover.
16
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2007
i totally skipped the rest accidentally
17
whatahutch said on November 12th, 2007
This is the scariest route I have ever been on. I was freakin the whole time. One hundred foot up and upside down is... bad ass. (Scary too, but still cool.)
18
JR said on November 13th, 2007
Interesting perspective whatahutch.....Here is my perspective: This is a fine route. I thought it was enjoyable the whole time. 80 feet up and nearly horizontal...Sweet. (Nice too, but still cool.)
19
toad857 said on December 15th, 2007
great route... i agree that the crux is on the slab, kind of a 'commitment' move. the roof is cake--those holds were made for our fingers!
20
512OW said on December 16th, 2007
If the crux is the slab then this should be downrated to 11a
21
edmclen said on May 9th, 2008
Uber-classic, what a great feeling to finally send!
22
DHB said on March 23rd, 2009
maybe a double draw is in order at the first bolt in the roof to cut down on drag and wear on the biner.
23
B.J. said on April 6th, 2009
PUM-PY!! The slab is hella fun. Wish it were longer. The roof is a mindless jughaul but it'll work you. Great route.
24
mpittdawg said on June 4th, 2009
My first 12! Such a fun route. I absolutely love the "mindless jug haul."
25
dhuff said on September 20th, 2009
Fun climbing. Great warm up/cool down for the route next to it.
26
SeanStone said on November 17th, 2009
My first 12! I freakin love this line!!!
27
dnietosi said on July 3rd, 2011
After cleaning this without the fix draws I can one give it 0 or 1 star.
28
dustonian said on July 4th, 2011
I'm sure Porter and the USFS are crushed... douche.
29
jlu said on August 8th, 2012
about the steepest route I've ever attempted, each move doable but how to string it all together... took twice as long to lower, even with the 2nd cold shut I added. Clean this one by TR, trust me
30
brhe224 said on November 28th, 2012
I'm sorry to inform everyone of this, but looking at nation news, this route is being taken down due to lack of funding. The money has dried up, and the infamous twinkie can no longer support itself.
31
bcircell said on April 22nd, 2013
Whoever left the titular treat at the rest - Thank You, was a huge mental boost to my totally trashed arms!
32
MrFizz said on September 29th, 2013
Needs to have perma draws put up
33
Anonymous said on September 29th, 2013
No perma draws on FS land. Man up.
34
Willy said on April 21st, 2014
Now has glue-ins everywhere but the anchors which looked to have been replaced more recently. Big thanks to Brian and Joel for helping out with this project!
35
dustonian said on April 21st, 2014
Awesome work guys!! And big thanks to the American Safe Climb Association and Mank Bank for the support.
36
[email protected] said on May 18th, 2015
what id give for perma draws in this
37
Anonymous said on May 18th, 2015
pussy
38
DrRockso said on June 11th, 2015
Lives up to the hype.
39
FreeSoloist said on October 8th, 2018
Soloed 6/10/2018 and 7/10/2018. Topping out was annoying, used knotted rope on tree. Bushwhacking to the top to set it up was heinous 0/10 do not recommend the bushwhacking 14/10 do recommend the climbing, it’s one of those routes that makes you feel more awesome than you are!
40
Cromper said on October 8th, 2018
Lmao what a goon, I will never understand why anyone would wanna spray about soloing something. I thought this was a troll post until I saw the photo. Cool story bro, hope you get laid.
41
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
Super bitchin' tie dye bro! Your grandpa make that for you?
42
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
So wait, you aided the top out? Free solo send negated!
43
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
A can be soloed? I've learned so much beta!
44
whoneedsfeet said on October 9th, 2018
Sweet fedora, don’t forget to log this on 8a so you can get the real internet points. Bama sucks Geaux tigers
45
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
Get back to Sand Rock with that shit choch. Also, whoneedsfeet it’s obviously a classy cabby hat.
46
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
Man this pisses me off. What the hell is the thought process here? Oh I feel so free when I solo. It's just me and the rock. Alone, quiet, a pursuit for my own joy and expression. WAIT. In complete contrast to that - let me post pictures of this shit, with a fucking tard-laden, reddit-derived comment on a fucking guide forum. Maybe then I can dilate my sphincter wide enough to take both Alex Honnold's cock as well as the whole internet community. I would say get a life, but clearly yours is close to ending. Happy ground thudding you attention-seeking fuck.
47
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2018
who is crazier? a dude who has to post about his free solos to get attention or the classy gentleman who is triggered by same and associates it w/ communal anal sex? Perhaps the two of you can get a group rate at psychosRus.
48
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2018
So you're going by "freesoloist" now nerd? Haha whats up douche bag, it's Stephon from Spain. Remember me? Me and the guys used to give you a hard time in Europe. Sorry you were just an easy target lol. I can see not much has changed. Remember Sarah the girl you had a crush on? Yeah we're married now. I make over 200k a year and drive a mustang GT. I guess some things never change huh loser? Nice catching up lol. Pathetic..
49
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2018
Stephon your english is really improving!
50
FreeSoloist said on October 10th, 2018
Stephon: Which varietals of hallucinogens are you currently imibing? I’m from originally from Texas and have only been to europe twice. Both times to Germany. Not sure who got your knickers in a twist, but it seems like you’re giving them a lot of control over your happiness given that you feel the need to spray so loudly about your opinion The name’s Austin, btw. I don’t feel the need to hide behind anonymity
51
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2018
I'm so old i remember people thinking it was a big deal when Dan Osman (R.I.P.).. (and Dean Potter) soloed stuff. They even put it in videos and sold tapes. It was crazy. Like, soloing is so 1989? The hate is amusing, though. p.s.-Stephon, your sexy engwish flamencoos my soul.
52
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2018
FreeSoloist trolled by "Stephon" hahaha.... a low point in the otherwise storied career of a Chicago-based gym-bred legend lol... can't wait for the movie about his epic double solo of Twinkie to come out!!!
53
Anonymous said on October 12th, 2018
fey jealousy in place of your lack of accomplishment... the perfect trailer.
54
Nick said on October 13th, 2018
Will you post an announcement when you free solo Phantasia so we can all watch?
55
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2018
Naw bro, next up gunna be Chainsaw with a bunch of aiders hanging down from a tree to the hold at the anchor, such a fuckin sick "accomplishment" hahaha
56
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2018
I don't understand why anyone cares one way or the other. Like, solo bro, hate to break it to you, but no one cares. But also, why care if some bro wants to solo stuff? Ppl always talk about the shock of seeing corpses or whatever, but death is a natural part of life. If I walk around the corner at Phantasia and tie-dye-solo-bro's corpse is sitting there on the ground, I'll call the authorities and go on about my day. There are much sadder ways to die.
57
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2018
Lots of jealousy by the locals.... I guess when all you have is meth and rock climbing other people climbing harder makes you jealous.
58
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2018
Again, soloing itself is not the issue here--although as far as "accomplishments" go, this one is pretty mundane and unimpressive--it's the shameless internet hosedown afterwards that is most offensively idiotic.
59
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2018
spray is spray regardless of the style of the ascent. i understand the irony of the “connected to the rock, spiritual” soloist spraying, but i didn’t hear that in this case. this is a website dedicated to spray so i find it weird when people start flipping out over solo spray.
60
FreeSoloist said on October 14th, 2018
Y’all do realize that I’ve never once said that this solo was impressive, or an accomplishment right? Soloing isn’t impressive, it just simply “is.” I spend my time on rock avoiding difficult moves, there’s nothing hardcore about that. It’s something fun, which I personally enjoy, and nothing more. Some folks here have forgotten the point of climbing is just that: enjoyment. Ironically, the locals have been spraying about this more than I ever could have... Have fun talking, I’ve got more climbing to do!
61
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2018
Then why would you post pictures of yourself or spray at all?
62
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2018
False modesty, so fuckin lame
63
Anonymous said on October 15th, 2018
I'm so modest. I'm not looking for attention. *Let me make a website spraying about my 'notable' solos and make a film about himself* https://www.thefreesoloist.com/
64
Anonymous said on October 16th, 2018
Sorry FreeDumboist, Greg Kerzhner soloed BOHICA more than once about 10 years ago. You are very, very small fry. And if you try to push your little ego.. you are going to die. How many fucking ass wipes are going to come out of the woodwork and perish now that Free Solo is out. I pity the search and rescue crew.
65
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2018
HOLA!!!!! Mis Amigos Ameicanos, it is your friend Stephon, from the southern aspect of Spain, regained to your land of the free and home of the brave. Speak of brave, regard me. El cabron Austin tiene juevos gigantos, no??? YES!!!! Haha!! He feel law of gravity don’t apply to him, no?? YES!!! Haha!! Much like laws of national security don’t apply to Hillary, no? YYYYEEEEEEEESSSSS!!!! Haha!! Josune say he very handsome in shirt of many colors!! She want to meet up soon. ¿Como se dice “spitroast” en Englis? You steal Stephon’s heart. . Let climb, friends. Let climb!
66
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2018
He's BACK! Yayyy!
67
KylePurp said on October 27th, 2018
Shout out Freesoloist, y’all think you’re hot shit while you be sleeping in yo mom’s basement and I be sleeping knee deep in dirty puss. Holla back when you livin that game like me. Phantasia solo. What up. The topout was was v5. What up. Shout out goodwill.