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This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

Luck's Up

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Phantasia 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula in 1990
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the bolted route 10 feet right of Twinkie. Climb a technical slab to a full recovery beneath the overhang. Race out the overhang on decent holds but don't get your hopes up because they quickly turn to crap. Bust out to a right-hand gaston to make the second last clip then recover for the last few moves to the chains.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.7 stars (20 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (17 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


climberdude99 said on August 4th, 2004
Great route, very pumpy, awesome crux
512OW said on November 1st, 2008
Better than Twinkie. The slab is better, the jugs are better, and it has a crux. Just all around better.
Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2009
slab is chill, crux is intense, jugs are tasty and large. One hundred and seventy four times better than twinkie.
Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2009
oh, I guess i could have just put, "what kris said" my bad.
dhuff said on September 20th, 2009
Very good, no super hard moves but definite crux. Highly recommended.
Jeff said on May 27th, 2011
Cleaned something off of this route that shouldn't have been on it. If yours, pm me with description and I will get back.
pigsteak said on May 27th, 2011
ewwww.who picks up used condoms? ur are nasty neal!
Cocoapuffs1000 said on May 16th, 2013
Someone left a giant fucking turd right at the base of this climb. Thank you, unknown climber, for having the grace to use biodegradable toilet paper to shit all over this climb. I bet you drive around in a Prius with a big kyak rack even though you don't own a fucking kyak... Fuck you.
Jeff said on May 16th, 2013
One of the best comments in a long time. Shitty situation though.
KylePurp said on October 27th, 2018
Solo’d this last week while my baby moms given burf. Epic photo. I don’t do it for the game though. This shit real. Y’alls see it in rocknice next week
KylePurp said on October 27th, 2018
KylePurp does it for the kids. Shout out goodwill.
KylePurp said on October 27th, 2018
Seriously donate at this link. My dude donated him car and wrote of his taxes last year.