Creep Show

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

Perverse Intentions


7.
+2
2 votes

Pogue Ethics 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Doug Hemken, Kevin Pogue in 1991
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Either walk far to the left of the previous climbs or take the alternate approach described in the directions to the wall. Look for a bolted line near an arete on a buttress with plated features. If you take the alternate approach, the route will be at the end of the approach trail.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.08 stars (178 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (190 votes)

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Submitted by: Troy_H
Date: Jun 29th, 2018

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 19th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 19th, 2016

Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Aug 6th, 2013

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 18th, 2012

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Oct 14th, 2010

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Oct 13th, 2010

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wes said on January 20th, 2003
More like 9+ then 10b.
2
tomdarch said on January 24th, 2003
Mmmmmm! Mid-way sit down rest! I like it! The start bulge could be tough for some, and the chunk after the ledge could be tough, but really and easy, fun 10b tick!
3
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2003
Way overrated. The only 10b move is the bulge; but most people cheat left. More of a 5.9 than a 5.10b.
4
Stewy911 said on June 3rd, 2003
Definately a one move wonder, although the one move can be avoided! But deinfately a classic! a must do!
5
sigs2001 said on October 9th, 2003
I have pics of this route if anyone wants others. long route
6
sigs2001 said on October 9th, 2003
I highly agree Wes....its long but really not technical at all
7
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2004
super fun route, easy 10b. Try it when it's wet for a challenge (beginning).
8
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
Very cool route. Wanders nicely on cool features.
9
keith_b00ne said on September 14th, 2004
One of my favorite routes so far. Lots of juggs. The bottom of the route can be wet and muddy. Sit on the right side on the slope to get started and watch your shoes roll away.
10
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
if the ground washes aweay in more it will be 5.14+ its ten if thats your limit at the time. you guys need to remember what its like to be starting climbing. thats alot of climbing for some one new
11
Anonymous said on January 31st, 2005
10 bolts, not 9
12
J-Rock said on June 18th, 2005
Somebody should finish bolting this wall. It looks like there are a few more possible routes to the left.
13
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
I hate to say this, but last year I saw a couple of NC climbers on this route and they were laughing and talking about how ridiculous the rating was.
14
K-Dawg said on September 28th, 2005
Nice length to the route. Fun climb even with the wet start.
15
Captain Bad Beta said on September 30th, 2005
This was one of my favorite climbs in the Red. I found it had a bit of everything and was one of the longer routes I have done (at the time). You can cheat the crux lowering the rating to 9+ (in my opinion). It is a ton of fun.
16
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
i think this route is really fun. but it is way to easy to be called 10b. i think its more like a 9- (but thats just what i think)
17
belay slave said on October 2nd, 2006
One of the best routes to help introduce someone to the Red. Very fun line that looks a lot more intimidating than it is.
18
Anonymous said on July 22nd, 2007
why is it listed 10b here when it's 9+ in the 2nd edition guide book?
19
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2007
Someone has put 3 x's on some rock that sounds a bit hollow - watch you don't use these! Even without them I think it's an easy 9 compared to other routes at the Red. Def not a 10!
20
tunedvwgti said on October 22nd, 2007
Very fun climb. I climbed with a 50M and only had about a left left once I was lowered down. Plates Galore and not very technical. LONG and FUN. It might help to clip the first few bolts with really long runners or slings which is what I did to help reduce drag. This route was originally a 5.10 b/c of the crux in the middle, which everyone skips, (myself included), which is why it has been downgraded, to hit the 10b move go directly over the bolts in the middle and don't cheat left.
21
tunedvwgti said on October 22nd, 2007
Correction to my above typo- I had a foot of rope left when I lowered down...
22
JR said on October 22nd, 2007
Correction tunedvw. It got down rated because consensus indicated is was not 10c. One more thing. Using the "b/c" abbreviation right after posting 5.10 gives me a whopper headache. I had to read that shit 10 times just to figure it out.
23
dan4geng said on March 31st, 2008
Led only on tying chicken heads. There are plenty of them and all seem pretty solid.
24
pigsteak said on March 31st, 2008
time to chop this thing then...it is now a trad lead.
25
SCIN said on March 31st, 2008
Why bother tying knots when there are bolts all over the thing?
26
Wes said on March 31st, 2008
Always funny to see 5.12+ climbers being *bold* on 5.9 routes!
27
dan4geng said on April 1st, 2008
I did it cause the first time I climbed it I thought "hey this would go totally safe on chicken heads". So the next time i was back i did it for kicks. I didn't hardly consider it bold. Why?... why not. I'm surprised i got such a good flaming. (especially from the author/photographer of the best guidebook)
28
SCIN said on April 1st, 2008
That punkass Pigsteak got the ball rolling. It's his fault. He's mean.
29
a_ranjit said on April 7th, 2008
New guidebook has this as a 9+, fun route with nice rest in the middle
30
Josephine said on April 28th, 2008
i went right at the crux so maybe i did it the hard way - but i still didn't think there was any move on this route that was harder than the roof pull on creature feature ;-) fun route and worth doing.
31
possum2082 said on June 8th, 2008
DANGER!!!!!! first bolt is a spinner. i went to tighten it and the actual bolt sleeve is falling out of the rock. stick clip to the second or just don't fall.
32
Wes said on July 4th, 2008
9+/10a, the start is getting harder, and it might end up solid 5.10 in a couple more years. Going very slightly to the right of the bolt at the overhang is the better line, but it is probably easier going way left. Ditto on the first bolt - I wouldn't trust it with much more the body weight, if that. Will try to get it replaced soon.
33
rokjunki said on August 3rd, 2008
whatever the grade its still a fun climb
34
Dman said on December 3rd, 2008
if thats a 10b im gettin good.
35
Redpoint said on July 28th, 2009
The runout between the second and third bolt is ridiculous. There was one other time when I looked down and noticed I was about 8 feet left of my last bolt, and it was under my feet, I would hate to take that fall. I thought you were supposed to take the easiest path (unless it involves you getting on a different route next to the one you are climbing), and so I went left at the bulge and I gave this a 9+ rating if you do it that way.
36
milspecmark said on September 3rd, 2009
Great Climb. Use an undergrip to get over crest 3/4th way up.
37
Redpoint said on October 22nd, 2009
I climbed this again recently, and as I started going left at the crux (bulge) I realized that my rope was on top of a scary piece of rock with plenty of sharp rock on top of it. There was no way to avoid this, and so I wanted to be on the safe side, so I went right at the crux.
38
gripster said on October 22nd, 2009
undergrip, hehehe, that's funny
39
Izzy said on October 23rd, 2009
You people who are complaining are lame. This route is awesome, if you can't handle anything more run out than your gym routes, and have no idea where to place a sling to prevent rope drag then that's your problem. Great route, well bolted and a solid adventurous 5.9.
40
dustonian said on October 23rd, 2009
This route is fun and perfectly bolted.
41
Redpoint said on October 23rd, 2009
Far from perfectly bolted, anyone who knows anything about bolting knows that the distance between the second and third bolt shouldn't be very great. Even if you were trying to clip the third bolt at the waist and fell you would take about a 30 foot grounder. I read a previous comment and I know why the crux's bolt is placed so oddly, it's because the route setter didn't want you to climb right or left of the bulge, but strait over it. And Izzy, how many sport climbers bring a giant sling with them when they are climbing, I have only seen it done once at practice wall. Even if you used a sling going left at the crux, it could still be ripped by the sharp rock that I saw protruding out of the wall. I still think this is a great route, but there should be another bolt between the second and third bolts, and the way the crux is protected is pretty confusing.
42
Jeff said on October 24th, 2009
It is what it is and that's what makes it what it is. Get over it. Get over the crux move ...????
43
Redpoint said on October 24th, 2009
I didn't realize I was coming off as a complainer, and my point was to give people a heads up; if the climber falls at the third bolt and hasn't clipped it yet, a running belay might save the day. So I have Redpointed it going left and now recently I have redpointed it going right, and so next time I climb it I can look forward to trying to go over the crux down center like the route setter intended you to do.
44
Jeff said on October 24th, 2009
Sorry redpoint, nothing personal meant. I was pwi again.
45
ynp1 said on April 8th, 2010
I went out there on 4/8 and there was a piece of tape on the first bolt with an "X" on it and the route had X's with chalk all over it... Does anyone know what this is all about??? just some gumby on spring break or is there really something wrong with the route???
46
crayon said on April 10th, 2010
The first bolt (with the X) was spinning and very loose. Clipping the second bolt first in combination with the high 3rd bolt made for a veryr heady beginning. Seemed unnecessarily so.
47
crayon said on June 6th, 2010
Did this route again last weekend, and the first bolt is still spinning (no tape on it anymore.) The space between the 2nd and the 3rd is definitely such that a running belay would be needed for a fall at the 3rd. If you go out right to clip the 3rd, however, you can stand up on a ledge to clip the bolt, which all but mitigates the ground fall potential. Attacking the crux via the center of the bulge, you can get a right hand undercling on the flake and a high left foot to easily pull the crux--this sequence is muchhhh easier than the left or the right variations which put you in an awkward location with the bolt line. With a thoughtful rebolting, this line could be much more of a classic.
48
jrathfon said on August 30th, 2010
The first bolt is in fact dangerous. You can see about an inch of the sleeve and it's a spinner. The rest of the line is great. The 2nd bolt can be easily stick clipped, even with the sticks lying around on the ground. The "runout" to the 3rd bolt is over easy terrain with a good ledge to stand on. If you really feel sketched the runout can be protected with a purple or green camalot. I was laughing most of the way, except the one thought provoking crux move, that this was even rated a 9. Redpoint, you should own a sling as ANY climber. You should also be able to eye up a rope line and determine how to mitigate rope drag or the rope crossing sharp edges, i.e. "rope management". "anyone who knows anything about bolting", have you ever placed a bolt? How about thanking the FA for putting their time and money into bolting the route so you could complain about it? Sorry for the rant, but I just ran into too many morons yesterday and didn't like how I thought I'd have to enact a rescue all day, not the relaxing day I was looking for. excellent route, a lot of fun, some thought involved.
49
Redpoint said on October 14th, 2010
I finally went up center at the crux and found the crimps. You crimp out right then make a long reach to crimp out left. Honestly I think it's easier to climb up the center than it is to go out right. Jrathfon, I hear you on the morons, I have three things to add to the weekend idiot report from one trip alone. You being in a bad mood might have contributed to you taking my posts all wrong, I wasn't trying to complain but to just put some warnings out there (that are not just a bunch of crap). Clipping the third bolt isn't that bad, but the way I do it I'm locked off with my right hand on a decent sized jug, and I can't do it standing on the ledge, so it's kind of pumpy for me. I may not have placed any bolts yet, but I still stand by what I said about the third bolt being too high, and about 20 people I have talked to at that crag agree, and not one has disagreed. I have reassessed the going left at the crux thing; you would need one hell of a sling considering the jugs are about 10 feet to the left of the bolt/bulge/crux. I love love love this route, thanks FA!!!
50
AndyB said on November 9th, 2010
While I found clipping the third bolt less than difficult, I would really, really hate to take a fall while trying to clip it. The distance from the second to the third bolt is roughly the same as that from the second bolt to the ground. Unless you are very lucky and/or have a really talented belayer, you're decking! Also, the first bolt spins and is useless but the second bolt can easily be stick clipped. Despite these complaints, I think it's a pretty fun route.
51
CbusShoe said on June 14th, 2011
My favorite easier route. Long and beautiful. The 3rd bolt is a little far from the second, but it felt like solid easy climbing the whole way between
52
Anonymous said on June 15th, 2011
Beware: 1st bolt is in terrible shape! Stick clip the second until it is replaced, I'll try to replace it soon or convince someone else to get to it soon.
53
CLIMBTRAD said on December 31st, 2011
Started rebolting this route today. First 3 bolts replaced with ss glue ins. I will be back in the next few weeks to finish the whole route. We could not remove that first spinner. Bolt,hanger and sleeve are moving but we could not get it out. Red raged that bolt untill I can remove it
54
dustonian said on December 31st, 2011
Nice work Patrick!! Everyone buy this man a beverage of his choice, dammit!!!! Oh yeah and please do NOT lower off directly through glue-ins bolts, use a biner or quicklink if you have to bail!
55
cliftongifford said on January 1st, 2012
The 3rd bolt was missing. That's why everyone was complaining about the run-out. Thanks for your work.
56
Willy said on March 2nd, 2012
This was being rebolted with glue ins last weekend I was out there. I climbed on the old bolts since they were still there and they hadn't finished placing the new ones. First bolt was half yanked out so I just skipped it and climbed to the second one. A little hairy but the bottom felt super easy. Followed the bolts straight through the crux. Its a really fun balancy move to a decent crimp. I'd say 10a doing it that way but deserves its downgrade thanks to the path of least resistance.
57
dustonian said on March 2nd, 2012
Thanks Patrick, Dan, and the other drillbillies for the hard work! Buy 'em a beer or three if you get the chance.
58
nik said on May 7th, 2012
great route. one of my favorites in the grade range.
59
dustonian said on August 13th, 2012
new stainless steel bolt at start, thanks to Patrick Miller for getting the ball rolling on this neglected old classic! If anyone is out there soon with a crescent wrench and quicklinks sometime soon, the anchor rings are getting fairly worn and could use replacement on the rope end.
60
Sco Bro said on July 12th, 2015
Left anchor bolt is loose. I finger tightened it. I could have removed it w my fingers it's so loose. Looks like this was caused be its chain being longer than the right anchor. Top Roper gang bangs have worked it loose. I reported this to badbolts.com but looks like this was first reported in 2014 to them.