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Pogue Ethics

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

 Grand Bazaar

8.
+0
0 votes

Perverse Intentions 5.10a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Tony Reynaldo, Richard Brashear in 1993
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the bolted route directly left of the left-facing flake Grand Bazaar.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
sharp (1) shady (1) pile (1) short (1) vertical (1) juggy (1) contrived (1) pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.29 stars (62 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (58 votes)

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Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

28 comments {add your own comments}
1
Power2U said on April 9th, 2003
Can you say, "Pile" all together boys and girls...."Pile"!
2
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2004
this route sucks. and why would one stop bolting a line so far from the top of the cliff?
3
haas said on July 6th, 2004
I think this climb is harder then Pogue Ethics
4
alfredo said on July 20th, 2004
This was wayyyy harder than Pogue Ethics. Maybe cuz it was wet.
5
Colorscholar said on April 12th, 2005
Well here is why the route is sooooo short. The holds at the time seemed non existant, and well I star-drilled the bolts by hand (no motorized action) plus this was my first line I ever bolted at the Red and well we all have to learn somewhere. I agree on the pile factor to an extent, but at least I learned something. There are a few cool moves on the wall though.
6
Gaar said on June 24th, 2005
You said it kevin
7
K-Dawg said on September 28th, 2005
Even bad climbing is better than a day at work.
8
Captain Bad Beta said on October 1st, 2005
The route wasn't that bad. It's short, the moves didn't really flow all that well for me but I would do it again.
9
merrick said on November 14th, 2005
got on it a few years back and hated it, got on it this year and thought it was a fine route. a little short and a little chossy, but had some cool holds and some nice stemming rests. if you have done the rest of the sport routes at Phantasia, it isn't a bad idea to give this one the five minutes it takes to climb it.
10
caribe said on March 8th, 2006
I liked the climb. A bit pumpy at the last two bolts. One of the bolts is a spinner (I think it is number two). One has to fight the sketched out feeling from rusty bolts. Some of these have seen better shinier days.
11
sarah1214 said on July 18th, 2006
i think the route is fun but one of the anchor bolts was rusty as hell (the left one) it was making me very nervous
12
der uber said on July 22nd, 2007
Not that bad - get on it once at least.
13
absolutsugarsmurf said on March 6th, 2008
It wasn't until two years after I first lead this route that I came back for the send. I hated it as much now as then. What a P.O.S.
14
Lander said on April 26th, 2008
whew! i finally got around to doing all the sport climbs on the left end of phantasia. now i don't EVER have to come back.
15
Josephine said on April 28th, 2008
it's probably not worth the effort - but it looks like this is original hardware from 1993 and may be in need of replacement. not a fun route for me.
16
ruetut said on May 24th, 2008
Not as bad as people say. Or I was expecting something worse than the curbside 10's and it was not. It does have a really bad and remote location.
17
pru said on May 27th, 2008
when bots go bad
18
trog said on May 27th, 2008
DO NOT GET ON THIS ROUTE> Until hardware is replaced; Anchor bolts are rusted through. Although the flake right protects well.
19
poser said on July 17th, 2008
Did it today. Same as it was when I first did it right after Tony & Richard put it up. Spinner...Stacked washers on one of the bolts...but the rust is new. *grin* Fun. (No, for real!! Please don't fix the gear. I love old, dangerous routes like this one, and the ones with Porter's rusty, old angle-iron hangers. Like long, scary runouts, it's an important part of the character of southern rock climbing.
20
jarthur said on November 1st, 2008
Dude this climb is no pile. It looks like a pile, but who gives a shit. The moves are fun and the holds are pretty solid. After the ledge at 1/3 height the moves are just as good as any of the same grade. When everything else is taken and it usually is on the weekends thanks to the routesetter for putting this up because at least there is something else to climb/warmup on that is 9 times out of 10 going to be open. Why would anyone want to climb past the anchors? The only choss on the route is 5 ft to the left of the route and everything above the anchors. Hmm so why did they stop the route where they did? Um open your eyes... it's shitty above the anchors.
21
jarthur said on November 1st, 2008
Dude this climb is no pile. It looks like a pile, but who gives a shit. The moves are fun and the holds are pretty solid. After the ledge at 1/3 height the moves are just as good as any of the same grade. When everything else is taken and it usually is on the weekends thanks to the routesetter for putting this up because at least there is something else to climb/warmup on that is 9 times out of 10 going to be open. Why would anyone want to climb past the anchors? The only choss on the route is 5 ft to the left of the route and everything above the anchors. Hmm so why did they stop the route where they did? Um open your eyes... it's shitty above the anchors.
22
Dman said on December 4th, 2008
ok
23
whatahutch said on June 17th, 2009
Smelt pissy up top. We aren't in California and I was wondering why it would smell such a way. Maybe the rusty anchors made me tinkle in my pants when I saw them and I was just smelling myself.
24
Rollo said on June 28th, 2009
i vote pile.... worst route at stellar crag.
25
DrRockso said on March 10th, 2012
Not a bad climb, the bolts and anchors are super rusted and probably need to be replaced soon. I think I remember the second bolt being a spinner.
26
woman said on June 10th, 2013
2nd bolt is still a spinner...but other than that it wasn't nearly as much of a pile as I was hoping for....
27
Reambo said on May 25th, 2014
My memory of pogue ethics and creature feature is fading cuz i had so much fun on this route, maybe it has cleaned up some over the years. The rock features, scenery and movement was cool, would be well worth bolt replacement, the second bolt spinner is still a spinner the third bolt washer stack is now a rust glob
28
Rx2Climb said on September 20th, 2014
I actually really enjoyed this route. Short yes, but original for Phantasia. Not sure if it was necessary, but I did a big cross move in the middle of the route that felt soo right!