Moonbeam

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Top-roper's Route


4.
+0
0 votes

Decays Way 5.7 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Larry Day in 1970
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This climb ascends the face and crack to the left of Moonbeam.
A variation to the route was climbed by Dave Lantis in 1995. It traverses right from the small ledge two thirds of the way up and angles up and right.
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.26 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (17 votes)

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Comments

1
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
Wasn't this rated 5.4?
2
tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
It was rated 5.4, Larry, but when I did it in maybe 1992, I felt it was closer to 5.7 or 5.8. Consensus said it was harder than your rating suggested- and I *AM* a trad climber, so I think it's fair. Some of the parterns I had fell/hung on this but flashed sunshine/moonbeam.
3
ynot said on September 10th, 2003
The start is harder than 5.4 I gave it a 6 at least. The top will chew up a rope.
4
The Pirate said on June 28th, 2004
seems like a 5.5 or so to me...
5
said on August 11th, 2004
please rate this route using the drop down menu above so we can get a consensus. I haven't led it yet so I am refraining from voting at this time. It also wasn't very memorable and I, well, can't remember!
6
AdventureBrandon said on October 30th, 2004
Don't do it. Full of very sharp edges, and the top stinks. It's appropriately named.
7
Day said on April 20th, 2005
I need to dig out my old notebook. First ascent would have been sometime in the mid 70s, not 1970. Not that it really matters all that much in this case.
8
AdventureBrandon said on May 19th, 2006
If you wish to keep your rope, skip this one. It's a series of horizontal razor blades. I wouldn't do this one again, ever.
9
Danny said on January 7th, 2008
This route is good.
10
Buzz said on June 28th, 2008
Didn't have to much problem with rope drag.
11
rjackson said on November 2nd, 2008
No problem with rope drag, nor did I have a problem keeping the rope off the horizontals. Great stances - gear up to a #4.
12
agentWTF said on May 2nd, 2009
Bring big gear, unless you feel like running out the last 30 feet... eek.