Lord of the Flies - Phantasia :: Red River Gorge Online Guide

Only using left side pockets (not around the arete) are doable to around 2nd/3rd even for a 5'6 climber...way harder than the rightside. Anchors poorly placed for TR.

soccerfast007 said on August 6th, 2007

great day to work on your left handed clips, great route, one of my first leads

tunedvwgti said on October 22nd, 2007

This climb is better than it looks. Short, but fun little move in the middle. I assume the standard route is to take the right side of the bolts. DEFINITELY not a 5.9, maybe a 5.8 I think......

Josephine said on April 28th, 2008

i thought it was hard when 5.8 was my limit and i backed off - it's a good warm up now - but it might be challenging for a 5.8 leader.

Lander said on April 29th, 2008

it's especially challenging if you don't bring draws.;-)

Barnacle Ben said on August 24th, 2009

One one hand, this route had some fun moves. On the other hand, the rock was manky at the bottom and dirty at the top near the ledge, and I agree with the poster who didn't like the anchor placement for TR.

milspecmark said on August 31st, 2009

Fun route with only 2 tricky parts. We got to the top ledge and walked back to find another trad route unmarked. I dont recommend the trad climb to anyone as the tree at the top is scetchy to get around and I don't trust its strength.

becbec1424 said on July 6th, 2010

The route itself was pretty enjoyable; the flies/mosquitoes drove us absolutely insane, however! Even up at the top I was still getting attacked. A very appropriately-named route.

CbusShoe said on June 15th, 2011

A surprisingly fun lead if you don't mind spiders & spider webs.

ryanthayer said on October 4th, 2012

I was just here last weekend, fun route.... anyways the anchors or one of the bolts, I cant remember which, looked really rusted. Someone should take a look at it or fix it maybe? Not sure who to contact....

LABIALDROOP said on October 4th, 2012

I pooped on the ledge at the top of this route. Then I gave myself a blowjob. I love twinkies.

Reambo said on May 25th, 2014

good stuff, don't pass it by

Anonymous said on May 28th, 2014

*** BOLT 3 or 4 needs REPLACED, it has a sharp worn outside edge to it that could cut a rope...*** great route for beginners.. and for those working their way out of fear of heights, like our 12yo.. who completed it! :)

MoHAlixPr said on November 10th, 2014

I agree, the third or fouth bolt is developing a sharp edge from the rope drag. Needs to be replaced soonish rather than later.

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Lord of the Flies 5.9 (Sport) **

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