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Bobsledding

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

 Over the Flies

12.
+1
1 votes

Lord of the Flies 5.9 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Kevin Pogue, Elisa Weinman Pogue in 1992
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the bolted face about 75 feet left of Bobsledding.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
short (1) pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.63 stars (131 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (110 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 9th, 2017

Submitted by: Roger
Date: Jul 6th, 2012

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: May 13th, 2008

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

21 comments {add your own comments}
1
Meadows said on August 25th, 2003
My first outdoor lead!
2
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2004
This is a classic route. Great for beginners.
3
Gaar said on June 9th, 2004
Climb to the left of the bolts. On the Arete. easy 10
4
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2004
Horrible route, really boring also pretty difficult if it is wet!
5
EverythignElse said on March 14th, 2005
good wet or dry, kinda silly standing up to set anchors.
6
docpolecat said on July 5th, 2005
For a short easy climb this has many differrent holds and rock formations. Great beginner route.
7
Captain Bad Beta said on September 30th, 2005
This was one of my first leads outside. Easy, short, protected. Instills some confidence in new climbers.
8
dah-le said on April 23rd, 2006
Only using left side pockets (not around the arete) are doable to around 2nd/3rd even for a 5'6 climber...way harder than the rightside. Anchors poorly placed for TR.
9
soccerfast007 said on August 6th, 2007
great day to work on your left handed clips, great route, one of my first leads
10
tunedvwgti said on October 22nd, 2007
This climb is better than it looks. Short, but fun little move in the middle. I assume the standard route is to take the right side of the bolts. DEFINITELY not a 5.9, maybe a 5.8 I think......
11
Josephine said on April 28th, 2008
i thought it was hard when 5.8 was my limit and i backed off - it's a good warm up now - but it might be challenging for a 5.8 leader.
12
Lander said on April 29th, 2008
it's especially challenging if you don't bring draws.;-)
13
Barnacle Ben said on August 23rd, 2009
One one hand, this route had some fun moves. On the other hand, the rock was manky at the bottom and dirty at the top near the ledge, and I agree with the poster who didn't like the anchor placement for TR.
14
milspecmark said on August 31st, 2009
Fun route with only 2 tricky parts. We got to the top ledge and walked back to find another trad route unmarked. I dont recommend the trad climb to anyone as the tree at the top is scetchy to get around and I don't trust its strength.
15
becbec1424 said on July 6th, 2010
The route itself was pretty enjoyable; the flies/mosquitoes drove us absolutely insane, however! Even up at the top I was still getting attacked. A very appropriately-named route.
16
CbusShoe said on June 14th, 2011
A surprisingly fun lead if you don't mind spiders & spider webs.
17
ryanthayer said on October 4th, 2012
I was just here last weekend, fun route.... anyways the anchors or one of the bolts, I cant remember which, looked really rusted. Someone should take a look at it or fix it maybe? Not sure who to contact....
18
LABIALDROOP said on October 4th, 2012
I pooped on the ledge at the top of this route. Then I gave myself a blowjob. I love twinkies.
19
Reambo said on May 25th, 2014
good stuff, don't pass it by
20
Anonymous said on May 28th, 2014
*** BOLT 3 or 4 needs REPLACED, it has a sharp worn outside edge to it that could cut a rope...*** great route for beginners.. and for those working their way out of fear of heights, like our 12yo.. who completed it! :)
21
MoHAlixPr said on November 9th, 2014
I agree, the third or fouth bolt is developing a sharp edge from the rope drag. Needs to be replaced soonish rather than later.