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You Got Served

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

 St. Alfonso's

13.
+0
0 votes

Attack of the Sand Shark 5.9- (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jerry Bargo, Bridget Shoe in 1993
Length: 70ft
Gear: Standard rack (report bad anchors)

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Walk to the left of Lord of the Flies around the corner to a dihedral with a roof at the top. Climb the left crack to a ledge, continue up the crack and rap from manky webbing below the roof. Or bring a knife, some fresh nylon, a few quick links and fix that shit.
Variation: Climb the right crack to the ledge. 5.8-
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from manky webbing.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.4 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (34 votes)

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Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Oct 15th, 2012

Comments

33 comments {add your own comments}
1
Jonathan said on May 21st, 2003
nice...real nice. I'd like to do it again when it's not pitch black and freezin' cold!
2
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2003
This route is gay.
3
The Pirate said on June 28th, 2004
need's new anchors...the webbing anchor is very poor...
4
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2004
This route is a choss pile. Almost cut my arm off trying to get as piece of gear out on the bottom
5
Stewy911 said on July 29th, 2004
Route description is good. Definately sandy!
6
dhoyne said on May 17th, 2005
Nothing like a few rotten slings just wrapped over a chock stone for an anchor...
7
Anonymous said on July 20th, 2005
Dirty cracks and rotten slings are what trad climbing is all about..... isn't it?
8
Yasmeen said on September 26th, 2005
There are now two stoppers in addition to the manky webbing.
9
Paul3eb said on September 26th, 2005
not all bad.. something to get on to mix it up a little. the stoppers should definitely help out.
10
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2005
Anchor is a tangled mess. The two belay rings are on two slings, only one of which goes around the horn. Didn't see any stoppers there.
11
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2005
BTW, a very fun route, though.
12
kdelap said on November 21st, 2005
one stopper is still there being used more or less as a chock stone
13
ynot said on March 7th, 2006
Doesn't do a bit of good to leave solid fixed gear on top of a route because some jackass will steal it every time and ruin it for everyone else.
14
caribe said on March 8th, 2006
This was my first trad lead. A loved the natural shelves for stopper placement. The climb was not very challenging which is exactly what I was looking for leading for the first time with trad. The pile of detritus at the top (dic: a. Disintegrated or eroded matter: the detritus of past civilizations.) to which I was to entrust my life was a bit sketchy! Instead of bitching lets do something about it. Before I climb it next time I will run to the Home Depot for chains.
15
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2006
A loved this route. A challenging climb with good placement for gear.
16
Wolf said on September 29th, 2006
It is fun to climb. There is good placement for gear. When I did it 2 weekends ago, though, the anchor was indeed sketchy. There was a tangled mass of webbing that was equalized off of what seemed to be a bomber stopper used as a chockstone and an actual chockstone. When I touched the chockstone, however, it disintegrated. So now the anchor is off the stopper and a wedged water knot.
17
michaelarmand said on November 12th, 2007
Very fun climb, and its quite clean given the name...
18
Sco Bro said on April 28th, 2008
And the water knot pooped out with a good tug. If you’re going to climb this thing then you need you need to be prepared to leave behind some gear and some new webbing. We didn’t have what we needed on lead, so my buddy found the idea of down climbing and cleaning it to be preferable to placing his life in the hands of that mank ass anchor system.
19
Buzz said on June 17th, 2008
Crux is above the ledge. About 8 feet up on the right is a great hold to grab.
20
Anonymous said on June 18th, 2008
Buzz, you idiot, do not post beta here. You're probably one of those annoying assholes who sprays unwanted beta at the cliffs, too.
21
RValentine09 said on March 20th, 2009
Fun route but that anchor up top is still a scary looking jumbled mess.
22
blaketh007 said on March 23rd, 2009
A bolted anchor would make this climb better. The fixed pro seems solid, but the webbing is sketchy. The climbing itself was fun! Solid placements.
23
The Sherpa said on June 23rd, 2009
Easy for a 5.9- but I guess thats why I liked it so much. Good gear and feet the entire way. Very fun,
24
saxfiend said on October 28th, 2009
Nice crack climbing! There are bolted anchors at the top now.
25
Wes said on August 9th, 2010
More sugar!
26
jrathfon said on August 30th, 2010
definitely fun, and sandy to boot! woo! love the anchors!
27
kwagner059 said on October 15th, 2012
Climbed this a couple weeks ago, there are nice bolted anchors and chains for the top anchors. Gear is good on this one. It was even better when I found a trango cam and stopper that somebody apparently bailed off of the first big ledge with.
28
tania said on December 23rd, 2012
Aside from being a bit chossy, and the last 5-6 feet being manky, slimy, and dripping wet, it was a somewhat enjoyable climb. Very appreciative of the bolted anchors.
29
rjackson said on January 10th, 2013
While it's a good rainy day choice with a huge roof that protects the route and the belay, the choss is not impervious to the humidity... Still, it was fun. My partner for the day summed it up, "...glad we got to do this one before it completely erodes away..."
30
tpowell said on February 19th, 2014
I don't know where all these choss comments are coming from. We climbed it just because it looked good, and I was pretty surprised at the name. Seemed pretty clean by Red standards to me.
31
polloloco said on June 2nd, 2014
Climbed it 5/25/2014. Didn't seem chossy. Nice climb. Lower bolted anchor at the top is a spinner.
32
Catawaba said on June 17th, 2015
Good climb, didn't think it was chossy at all. couldn't imagine the old anchors though, the bolted anchors were greatly appreciated
33
njclimber said on February 8th, 2017
Does the roof above this climb go?