Seibert Route

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Jewel Pinnacle

Kool Aid


2.
+2
2 votes

Diamond in the Crack 5.6 (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Larry Day, Tom Seibert in 1974
Length: 120ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This crack system is located on the north face of the pinnacle (facing the parking area). Climb a dirty crack to a ledge and belay. Take the clean dihedral to the top passing a roof on the way.
Walk off on the back side or rappel from fixed anchors.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Walk off
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
juggy (1) classic (1) exposed (1) beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.67 stars (69 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (46 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 27th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Aug 31st, 2016

Submitted by: Roger
Date: Oct 4th, 2012

Submitted by: toad857
Date: Apr 16th, 2012

Submitted by: Dman
Date: Feb 3rd, 2009

Submitted by: rrgclimber
Date: Sep 7th, 2007

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: May 3rd, 2006

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: May 3rd, 2006

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
hamsco said on June 8th, 2003
Classic RRG 5.6- river crossing/bushwack/big hill/crappy 1st pitch/ great payoff pitch w/ cool exporsure and top out!!!
2
Legion said on March 1st, 2004
Can be done in one pitch. Take a #4 camalot.
3
The Pirate said on April 22nd, 2004
a gorge classic for sure...two pitches with a great top out
4
Anonymous said on July 26th, 2004
rien!
5
Newkirk said on August 24th, 2004
The climb itself isn't all that great, but the approach/top out as so great that it is very much worth it! A much different climbing experience than bolt clipping at Left Flank for sure.
6
J-Rock said on April 15th, 2005
I wish there were more routes like this one! A great place to take newbies for a memorable adventure.
7
Ascentionist said on October 19th, 2005
The seond pitch is worth the hike.
8
Sketch said on May 3rd, 2006
Best two-pitch 5.6 in the Red in my opinion
9
MudFalcon said on May 30th, 2006
I agree, this route is TIGHT
10
squeezindlemmon said on June 15th, 2006
Thanks to Tom for putting a summit register - It was pretty cool to be able to write down how you feel once you top out. The view can easily make a poet out of anybody. Definitely one of my favorite routes in the Gorge!
11
Gaar said on September 5th, 2006
moved to FL for 7 months and this was the first route i wanted to do when i got back!!! Loved every min of it. Good to be home!
12
RRO said on March 31st, 2007
good route. great for the 5.6 leader and first multi pitch
13
rrgclimber said on August 30th, 2007
great classic route.climbed it today. dont forget to sign the registry at the top. cant wait to climb it this fall.
14
rrgclimber said on September 9th, 2007
climbed it for my second time. it was as fun as the first time. who took the webbing down off the tree on top of the first pitch. if you didn't put it up don't touch it.
15
tunedvwgti said on October 22nd, 2007
Great Climb, I had to run out the top after the roof move because of my lack of large cams. Challenging 5.6 IMO. Fabulous Views!
16
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2008
we tried to walk off this thing after topping it out, but could not locate a trail. we ended up going down some really sketch gully system. save yourself the trouble. bring some loose nylon to extend the anchors up top and rap off. great climb.
17
cliftongifford said on July 18th, 2008
beautiful climb... the approach is crazy if you don't find the trail! after you cross the river, go up the dirty steep bank and take the faded trail to your left, and it'll lead you up the hill to the pinnacle.
18
CLIMBTRAD said on July 31st, 2008
Great route!! WE been trying to go more so the trail gets better.Very easy for new climbers.Great view at top.
19
Ascentionist said on August 1st, 2008
Don't think the trail needs to be better. THis is one of those that is fantastic because there is no trail. IMHO.
20
Sco Bro said on August 18th, 2008
The easiest way to get to the river crossing, and trail on the other side) is to park at the Gladie Visitor center, follow the mowed field to the river, follow the river right until it joins with Gladie Creek, cross the river and identify the slightly hidden path which is close to the junction of the creek and river. I found the walk off a bit sketchy, if you want to rap off the top you’ll want to replace the webbing off the anchor.
21
Ascentionist said on August 19th, 2008
If you can do the 4th class stuff at Half Moon (like all the sport rappellers of old) then you can do the "walk off" for Jewel. It's actually kinda fun, especially with trad gear and a partially coiled rope.
22
dirtdog said on September 22nd, 2008
Did it in one pitch. There was good webbing and cord at the anchors.
23
DuppyC said on November 3rd, 2008
Best top out I have been on yet.
24
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
great climb first lead ever including sport
25
Barnacle Ben said on March 9th, 2009
We did this one yesterday. Exposure and top out are what makes this great. Unfortunately it started raining and we only got two out of four of us to the top. The guidebook recommends against rappelling off the top, but I'm assuming this was before webbing and rap rings were added to the anchors, so you can rappel right from the edge. I rapped off and had no problem. Webbing and rap rings looked fairly new, definitely in good shape. My partner said the walk off was sketchy, but I think this was due more to the wetness of the rock than anything.
26
blaketh007 said on May 25th, 2009
Love this route! The approach is a bit intense compared to, say, roadside attraction but well worth it. Take an extra red and gold BD cam for the roof and some webbing to extend rap anchors. As of 5.25.09 the rap anchors were in good shape. Super fun, great exposure and the view is well worth it.
27
possum2082 said on July 19th, 2009
bring some big stuff for the beginning and end of the 2nd pitch. i left quicklinks on the 2 anchors at the top thinking i could rappel and pull my rope just like bedtime. nope, definitely stuck. fortunately, a group on the top fed it down to us. save the tree at the top and just walk off. oh yeah, cross the river at the big, goofy-shaped boulder. you'll see a dirt path/run off. go up and take a left. follow the river and cut right when you see a big downed tree.
28
Bluelopez100 said on March 5th, 2010
Awesome route!!! My partner lead the first pitch. I took the money pitch. Bring a BD 4 or other! I climbed 20ft with only a BD 3! Great exposure, and fun climbing. Top all that with a great view! At the ground we didn't think we would need anything bigger than a BD 3, that was a mistake! Live and learn.....
29
jrathfon said on April 12th, 2010
Great route, great climbing, fun creek crossing, excellent view, north facing so great when it's hot, and the river actually feels nice! Combined this with Minas Tirith to make a dual pinnacle day, late start otherwise we would have hiked to Minas Illith as well! Park at the old Buffalo field, West of the Gladie Creek Bridge, hike down to the intersection of Gladie Creek and the Red, cross just downstream of Gladie Creek, near the funny shaped champagne glass rock. We just schwacked straight up to it, never did find a trail. First pitch isn't that dirty, but isn't that great. 2nd pitch has great movement. A #4 is definitely helpful! We retied and extended the anchors to be just over the lip, left metal on the end, webbing and cord is fine, will probably be bleached out within a year, replace with 20ft of material. You can easily rap with a 60M and most likely a 50M, we had a 70M with an easy 30ft of rope on the ground on each tail. Yvon Chouinard signed the register in '06! (yeah right.) The cap to the register is lost, but the can can be placed upside down to not get water in it. If somebody wants to bring a 3" PVC screw cap up there, that'd do the trick.
30
hypro said on September 15th, 2010
Walk through the Glady field behind the cabin. then cross the river. the trail is ok if you find it, otherwise bushwack, but still not that bad even wo trail
31
shuffleboardfan said on October 4th, 2010
Sco Bro's approach was pretty accurate. Wish I would have read it before I went! You could also park in the gravel pull out an 8th of a mile west of the Gladie Bridge. Then hike through the fenced field (not electric) to the creek and then cross at the Red/Gladie Creek junction. Then jungle crawl up the hill. Also it's tough to see the pinnacle from the West side of the bridge. Best view is straight ahead, right when you pull into the Gladie visitor center.
32
CLIMBTRAD said on August 29th, 2011
New anchor!! SS glue ins with chain thanks to rrgclimber for the help hand drilling
33
pdpcardsfan said on October 21st, 2011
new anchors made rapping with a 60m rope possible, I did it.
34
ted said on November 2nd, 2011
Yep! Beautiful top out, great climb! The approach isnt half as bad as you think. Well worth it. Thanks Patrick for the chains, no problem rapping off or pulling the rope!
35
monty4355 said on July 8th, 2012
The trail has really worn in. It is no longer a faint trail as described in the guide book at all. One of the best climbs I have done in the red!!
36
Willy said on October 8th, 2012
Excellent adventure climb! Some of the comments in the register are hilarious. Took the better part of the day to find it and bring five novice climbers up but well worth it. Way better than Bedtime for Bonzo!
37
dfspau2 said on October 13th, 2012
Thanks for the new glue-ins and chains, makes the rap and pulling the rope smooth...
38
Jeff said on October 13th, 2012
Nice work Patrick! This is an excellent climb and thanks to you it is more "user friendly" Was always a bitch to find the walk off or pull rope.
39
CLIMBTRAD said on October 15th, 2012
Funny thing about those anchors..i put ss chain and links on the new bolts.. came back the next week to check things out and what do ya know someone took the stainless!! bummer that was not a cheap rig.. so i had to use what i had and was a little rusty, but was fine.. ill try to get back out sometime with new chain and links
40
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2013
Not a fun hike up to the wall, especially if u lose the trail and have to bushwhack. River crossing is pretty cool. Two options for first pitch: widehands splitter on left, or thinner layback flake on right. Belay on midway ledge, building an anchor in horizontal crack under roof with gear from fingers to #2 camalot size. At least one #4 camalot is nice to have for the first 15 feet of the second pitch, but the rest of the climb will take hand size pro. No stoppers necessary. The second pitch and top out make the approach and first pitch worth it. Someone should replace the summit log- that notebook is getting full- but it's fun to read! FYI, if you're so inclined, and have a few extra runners, the route can be done in one pitch. Double rack of camalots from .75 to 4 and you'll be climbing safe as can be. no webbing necessary for rappel. Rings and long chains over the lip are shiny. One rap w/ 70m rope. Not sure what a 60 would look like.
41
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2013
Not sure why everyone thinks the walk off is so "sketch" or difficult with a rack on. Walk off the back and circle around to the left. It brings you back to the base of the wall quicker than it would be to rappel. You can also rappel with one 60 meter rope of the top if you are so inclined. Also I would recommend just doint it in one pitch. The climb is only a 100 feet long and a straight shot, no reason to pitch it out.
42
Catawaba said on April 27th, 2015
a pain adventure approach, to decent climbing, to an excellent top out, easy rap with a 60m, a #4 is recommended for the second pitch
43
mourz said on February 23rd, 2016
Good P2, great views, mid-point ledge is quite huge. Best way to get there is to go through the field, head right when you hit the river, through a meadow with trees, go just a little past where the stream intersects the river, cross and head straight up the lower angle ground, will lead you right to where you rap off. Don't even worry about a trail. Also the summit registry was reduced to paper pulp when I was there :( the lid appeared to have still been missing. Whats up with the numbers carved in the rock?
44
milspecmark said on July 18th, 2016
Approach has a ton of down trees now. Also, could someone bring a new pen for the summit log, the pen is falling apart. Great climb. Bottom of the 2nd pitch is the crux (In my opinion) and I later fifures out to stay right. Dont stay so close to the crack for the initial move. Very fun route!
45
DrRockso said on August 15th, 2016
First thanks for the Glue-ins and chain! To get there park at Glady and walk through the field then follow a mowed path on your right that is parallel to the river, follow a trail past there then head across the river when you get to an unofficial campspot/where a creek meets the river. Once across the river you'll find a faint trail that will take you all the way there. Summit register is in great shape. Did in one pitch with little drag, used a double length runner for the peice on the ledge. 60m will get you down with no rope to spare so tie knots. Had trouble pulling and had to climb the first pitch again, may have had something to do with using a munter to rap down as I gave my ATC to my belayer. Great route, will wait until it's colder next time.
46
Anonymous said on August 30th, 2016
The easiest place to cross the Red River is where it meets Gladie Creek. Crossing anywhere else might require a swim at normal water flows. Once across the creek, you'll discover a clear user defined path running along the river in both directions. After crossing by Gladie Creek, walk up river (left) about 500 feet to where the hill is less steep. From here, we picked up (and then lost, and then picked up again) the trail leading to Diamond in the Crack. The belay ledge is obvious, and large enough to unrope if needed. I'd rap off 10 times in 10 because the scramble looks super sketch.
47
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2016
The walk off is totally casual and fine, takes less than 5 minutes. Walk off the backside at the obvious spot then hang a left when you reach the grand which will traverse around the pinnacle back to your bags.
48
rappm said on June 11th, 2017
Probably the most fun I've had climbing so far, really incredible!