redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Classic RRG 5.6- river crossing/bushwack/big hill/crappy 1st pitch/ great payoff pitch w/ cool exporsure and top out!!!

a gorge classic for sure...two pitches with a great top out

The climb itself isn't all that great, but the approach/top out as so great that it is very much worth it! A much different climbing experience than bolt clipping at Left Flank for sure.

The seond pitch is worth the hike.

I agree, this route is TIGHT

moved to FL for 7 months and this was the first route i wanted to do when i got back!!! Loved every min of it. Good to be home!

great classic route.climbed it today. dont forget to sign the registry at the top. cant wait to climb it this fall.

Great Climb, I had to run out the top after the roof move because of my lack of large cams. Challenging 5.6 IMO. Fabulous Views!

beautiful climb... the approach is crazy if you don't find the trail! after you cross the river, go up the dirty steep bank and take the faded trail to your left, and it'll lead you up the hill to the pinnacle.

Don't think the trail needs to be better. THis is one of those that is fantastic because there is no trail. IMHO.

If you can do the 4th class stuff at Half Moon (like all the sport rappellers of old) then you can do the "walk off" for Jewel. It's actually kinda fun, especially with trad gear and a partially coiled rope.

Best top out I have been on yet.

We did this one yesterday. Exposure and top out are what makes this great. Unfortunately it started raining and we only got two out of four of us to the top. The guidebook recommends against rappelling off the top, but I'm assuming this was before webbing and rap rings were added to the anchors, so you can rappel right from the edge. I rapped off and had no problem. Webbing and rap rings looked fairly new, definitely in good shape. My partner said the walk off was sketchy, but I think this was due more to the wetness of the rock than anything.

bring some big stuff for the beginning and end of the 2nd pitch. i left quicklinks on the 2 anchors at the top thinking i could rappel and pull my rope just like bedtime. nope, definitely stuck. fortunately, a group on the top fed it down to us. save the tree at the top and just walk off. oh yeah, cross the river at the big, goofy-shaped boulder. you'll see a dirt path/run off. go up and take a left. follow the river and cut right when you see a big downed tree.

Great route, great climbing, fun creek crossing, excellent view, north facing so great when it's hot, and the river actually feels nice! Combined this with Minas Tirith to make a dual pinnacle day, late start otherwise we would have hiked to Minas Illith as well! Park at the old Buffalo field, West of the Gladie Creek Bridge, hike down to the intersection of Gladie Creek and the Red, cross just downstream of Gladie Creek, near the funny shaped champagne glass rock. We just schwacked straight up to it, never did find a trail. First pitch isn't that dirty, but isn't that great. 2nd pitch has great movement. A #4 is definitely helpful! We retied and extended the anchors to be just over the lip, left metal on the end, webbing and cord is fine, will probably be bleached out within a year, replace with 20ft of material. You can easily rap with a 60M and most likely a 50M, we had a 70M with an easy 30ft of rope on the ground on each tail. Yvon Chouinard signed the register in '06! (yeah right.) The cap to the register is lost, but the can can be placed upside down to not get water in it. If somebody wants to bring a 3" PVC screw cap up there, that'd do the trick.

Sco Bro's approach was pretty accurate. Wish I would have read it before I went! You could also park in the gravel pull out an 8th of a mile west of the Gladie Bridge. Then hike through the fenced field (not electric) to the creek and then cross at the Red/Gladie Creek junction. Then jungle crawl up the hill. Also it's tough to see the pinnacle from the West side of the bridge. Best view is straight ahead, right when you pull into the Gladie visitor center.

new anchors made rapping with a 60m rope possible, I did it.

The trail has really worn in. It is no longer a faint trail as described in the guide book at all. One of the best climbs I have done in the red!!

Thanks for the new glue-ins and chains, makes the rap and pulling the rope smooth...

Funny thing about those anchors..i put ss chain and links on the new bolts.. came back the next week to check things out and what do ya know someone took the stainless!! bummer that was not a cheap rig.. so i had to use what i had and was a little rusty, but was fine.. ill try to get back out sometime with new chain and links

Not sure why everyone thinks the walk off is so "sketch" or difficult with a rack on. Walk off the back and circle around to the left. It brings you back to the base of the wall quicker than it would be to rappel. You can also rappel with one 60 meter rope of the top if you are so inclined. Also I would recommend just doint it in one pitch. The climb is only a 100 feet long and a straight shot, no reason to pitch it out.

Good P2, great views, mid-point ledge is quite huge. Best way to get there is to go through the field, head right when you hit the river, through a meadow with trees, go just a little past where the stream intersects the river, cross and head straight up the lower angle ground, will lead you right to where you rap off. Don't even worry about a trail. Also the summit registry was reduced to paper pulp when I was there :( the lid appeared to have still been missing. Whats up with the numbers carved in the rock?

First thanks for the Glue-ins and chain! To get there park at Glady and walk through the field then follow a mowed path on your right that is parallel to the river, follow a trail past there then head across the river when you get to an unofficial campspot/where a creek meets the river. Once across the river you'll find a faint trail that will take you all the way there. Summit register is in great shape. Did in one pitch with little drag, used a double length runner for the peice on the ledge. 60m will get you down with no rope to spare so tie knots. Had trouble pulling and had to climb the first pitch again, may have had something to do with using a munter to rap down as I gave my ATC to my belayer. Great route, will wait until it's colder next time.

The walk off is totally casual and fine, takes less than 5 minutes. Walk off the backside at the obvious spot then hang a left when you reach the grand which will traverse around the pinnacle back to your bags.