COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
A Military Wall warmup classic. If you're under six feet, some fancy moves might be necessary to get off the ground. Pinching makes several holds more positive. WARNING: BETA FOLLOWS. If you get pumped, don't skip the no-hands at the fourth bolt. Above the last bolt, it's easiest on the right side.
I would agree about the six foot remark above. I didn't see the rest at the fourth bolt though, oh well the grade is easy enough it doesn't require it.
I didn't like this climb. Maybe the start used to be better before the dirt at the base of the cliff eroded? As it is now, I agree the start is tough for those of us who are not super tall - it is practically a pull-up, since there are no good feet. And I don't understand why this is rated a 5.9 when Sunshine is a 5.9+ - they seemed pretty similar to me.
Amazing route, this is what the Red is all about, pockets galore and overhang. I found this to be one of the pumpiest routes I've ever climbed and thought that the 5.9 rating was pretty low. Great holds all over, and VERY pumpy for a 5.9 level climb. I am no expert, but I've climbed 5.10a/b/c/d and this route is right up there with one of the hardest climbs I've ever done. But regardless of the rating, one of the best routes I've ever been on...Classic Red route.
I was really sore when I did this route. It was weird for me. Looking at it, it looks like a 5.8, but there are far fewer good holds than appears, and you can't totally rely on your feet since it's moderately steep. It is therefore pretty dang pumpy for a 5.9. The rating is probably accurate, but it definitely gets you pumped more than your typical 9.
I was really approaching this route today from bouldering yesterday. It was weird for me. Looking at it, it looks like a 5.8, but there are far fewer good holds than appears, and you can't totally rely on your feet since it's moderately steep. It is therefore pretty dang pumpy for a 5.9. The rating is probably accurate, but it definitely gets you pumped more than your typical 9.
Everytime I visit this wall someone rips their thumb open... I have no clue why people are afraid to fall... WHY WOULD YOU STOP YOURSELF FROM FALLING WITH YOUR THUMB?
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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