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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Sunshine

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

 Decays Way

3.
+0
0 votes

Moonbeam 5.9 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Steve Cater, Porter Jarrard in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the route directly to the left of Sunshine.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (146 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (113 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 27th, 2017

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: jfc1005
Date: Feb 3rd, 2011

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

24 comments {add your own comments}
1
jlu said on November 23rd, 2003
pumpy route, keep some forearm strength for this one
2
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2004
Wes needs to lose some weight to get up this thing. MT1
3
Zspider said on October 3rd, 2004
A Military Wall warmup classic. If you're under six feet, some fancy moves might be necessary to get off the ground. Pinching makes several holds more positive. WARNING: BETA FOLLOWS. If you get pumped, don't skip the no-hands at the fourth bolt. Above the last bolt, it's easiest on the right side.
4
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2004
I would agree about the six foot remark above. I didn't see the rest at the fourth bolt though, oh well the grade is easy enough it doesn't require it.
5
Paul3eb said on April 5th, 2005
if this is at your level, it's a really tough climb and can pump you out very quickly. otherwise, it's a solid warmup.
6
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
Nice climb... good warm up.
7
ewaaser said on February 9th, 2006
Pump fest. And the start is tough if you're short!
8
pigsteak said on April 10th, 2006
should be chopped with this entire wall..contrived as hell, as the other two are.
9
Anonymous said on July 18th, 2007
Third bolt is a spinner as of 7/17/07.
10
clattin1 said on July 26th, 2007
I didn't like this climb. Maybe the start used to be better before the dirt at the base of the cliff eroded? As it is now, I agree the start is tough for those of us who are not super tall - it is practically a pull-up, since there are no good feet. And I don't understand why this is rated a 5.9 when Sunshine is a 5.9+ - they seemed pretty similar to me.
11
512OW said on July 27th, 2007
Nah. Just learn to use your feet.
12
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2007
clipping jug on forth bolt is gone...so watch the clip
13
512OW said on September 24th, 2007
which one? To the left of the bolt or right of the bolt. Slightly above or below?
14
Meringue said on March 7th, 2008
a little pumpy, not quite as enjoyable as sunshine tho
15
keegan540 said on April 23rd, 2008
Solid 5.9 climbing
16
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Amazing route, this is what the Red is all about, pockets galore and overhang. I found this to be one of the pumpiest routes I've ever climbed and thought that the 5.9 rating was pretty low. Great holds all over, and VERY pumpy for a 5.9 level climb. I am no expert, but I've climbed 5.10a/b/c/d and this route is right up there with one of the hardest climbs I've ever done. But regardless of the rating, one of the best routes I've ever been on...Classic Red route.
17
Dman said on January 10th, 2009
good fun climbing
18
45percent said on January 16th, 2009
No surprises on this route.
19
512OW said on January 18th, 2009
Weren't you suprised that there were no suprises? I know I was. OH SHIT!! Ray, did you see that??? I should write guidebooks!!!
20
DHB said on April 9th, 2009
the "pipe" jug about halfway up is loose. Watch out.
21
KifuCoffeeRoaster said on January 26th, 2012
I was really sore when I did this route. It was weird for me. Looking at it, it looks like a 5.8, but there are far fewer good holds than appears, and you can't totally rely on your feet since it's moderately steep. It is therefore pretty dang pumpy for a 5.9. The rating is probably accurate, but it definitely gets you pumped more than your typical 9.
22
KifuCoffeeRoaster said on January 26th, 2012
I was really approaching this route today from bouldering yesterday. It was weird for me. Looking at it, it looks like a 5.8, but there are far fewer good holds than appears, and you can't totally rely on your feet since it's moderately steep. It is therefore pretty dang pumpy for a 5.9. The rating is probably accurate, but it definitely gets you pumped more than your typical 9.
23
Bloody Knees said on October 24th, 2012
Everytime I visit this wall someone rips their thumb open... I have no clue why people are afraid to fall... WHY WOULD YOU STOP YOURSELF FROM FALLING WITH YOUR THUMB?
24
pigsteak said on October 26th, 2012
bigger question...why would you be visiting this wall?