Anything You Want

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Tower Rock

The Grunges


9.
+0
0 votes

Mighty Eidson 5.4 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Bill Eidson, Nancy Eidson in 1974
Length: 120ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This route ascends the wide crack 30 feet right of the 6 foot high roof that Delta Blow begins on. Climb the first pitch to a large ledge and belay. Move up and left to a ledge, then right to a short slot to the summit.
Do not use the ancient star drive-in at the top of the first pitch as a belay anchor for the second pitch. It is NOT good for upward forces. Beware of the fallen tree along the ledge.
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.35 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (13 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Yerac
Date: May 26th, 2006

Comments

1
Yerac said on May 26th, 2006
On 6-May-2006 we climbed Mighty Eidson, and eventally rapped from the tree at the top of the first pitch. As I was about to descend termites swarmed from the tree. I took a photo in case someone needed to see proof. I suggest that all climbers who rap here or use it as an anchor to bring up the second carefully evaluate the security of the tree before commiting to it's use. E-mail me if you'd like to see the photo.
2
Yerac said on May 26th, 2006
I found I could post the photo here, so click on it to see all the detail.
3
z-rock said on June 11th, 2006
It was a realy fun route, bring big gear if you don't want to run it out.
4
hypro said on July 21st, 2009
Just did 1st pitch, rapped off tree, it seemed ok....
5
duthi1mh said on May 28th, 2012
Scariest, sketchiest 5.4 I've ever climbed. That said, I'd do it again. Just don't expect the chimney to be at all protected unless you've got a #6 cam. We reached about 8 feet deep in the chimney to get a tipped out #5 to even stay in place, and had to toss our helmets off the climb to be able to reach that deep. Interesting, for sure.
6
jenbongo said on May 30th, 2013
The route description is confusing. "Move up and left to a ledge"? How about summit ledge and follow the trail back right? I bailed on the offwidth slot to the summit. It seemed very committing with poor protection. I couldn't get any feet off the ledge; not sure that's a 5.4. The first pitch was fun, but also harder than 5.4. Tree at top of first ledge is still alive.
7
gritstone said on October 15th, 2013
Still very confused about where this route goes after the first pitch. We ended up bailing off the tree belay (tree seemed okay). It took all my thrashing skills to get up the first 10 feet :)
8
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2017
Fun route. First pitch the the best climbing, but the 2nd and 3rd are worth the summit views. I was able to protect the 1st pitch chimney with a blue tri-cam in a pocket. 2nd pitch follows crack up for a short amount of climbing and then scramble up and left to the vegetated ledge. Walk south through the bushes to find pitch three. You can traverse south and then do a big pull-up move to gain the chimney. I was able to partially protect last move with a #6.