Spoke Junkies

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

False Flat


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Trash the Training Wheels 5.8 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Sean Strawmyer, Miles Smith in 2019
Length: 70ft
Gear: Doubles of 0.1 - #1 BD, #2 BD, #11 Wallnut (report bad anchors)

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Go through the gap between the main wall and the pinnacles, staying along the main wall. Just around a corner on the main wall and across the gap from Krypton, you will see a crack that curves right about nine feet up and then meanders to the top. Follow the broken crack system, making use of jams and fragile edges along the way. Near the top, do a delicate traverse right across a dirty ledge to a tree near the edge with webbing and a quick link. Recommend placing a #2 BD in a high left pocket before traversing to keep the rope out of the mank.
Moves: Edges and Jams
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Oct 21st, 2019

Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Oct 21st, 2019

Comments

1
strawmyers said on October 22nd, 2019
Lime green webbing and SS quick link put on rap tree during 10-19-19 FA. Will likely add some anchors if someone doesn't beat me to it, as the traverse to the rap tree isn't ideal. This should actually clean up to be a pretty decent route. We busted off as much loose stuff as we could that day, but it will benefit from more traffic. There are fragile edges and some mossy sections of the crack. This was an impromptu FA, so we didn't have the extra tools with us that day to do a proper cleaning. Takes gear well.
2
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2019
cool story