COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Tourist Attractions

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

Lighting Rod Arete


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Share the Lain 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Matthew Jaggers, Shuhan Li, Jacob Ward in 2019
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Far left side of Velo, 40 yards past Lightning Rod Arete. This is the most right line of the three starting below the ledge. Sustained, technical, and powerful climbing on a gently overhanging face featuring several amazing precision finger slots. This climb is pitched back just enough to pump you out before the crux if you're moving slow. Battle through the crux and stay patient going to the anchor. This climb requires an attentive belay to protect from the ledge.
Moves: Powerful, Technical, Crimpy
Descent: Offset Anchor with Quick Links
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.63 stars (8 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (2 votes)

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Comments

1
Mdjagg said on January 6th, 2020
Until Permadraws have been added to the 4th and 5th bolt, I HIGHLY recommend pre hanging the draws on your way down from Tourist Attractions.
2
Anonymous said on January 6th, 2020
5 star ledge fall potential
3
shadow.ayala said on January 7th, 2020
Just for the record. I did NOT bolt this route.
4
Mdjagg said on January 7th, 2020
I bolted it, and you should take precautions by hanging the draws before leading it until permadraws are on bolts 4 and 5. I've fallen at every bolt and never hit the ledge. Not a line to climb with a new belayer. If you dont climb 11+/12-, you probably shouldn't try it.
5
Mdjagg said on January 7th, 2020
If it wasn't the easiest route of all time to pre hang the daws after leading the 10b next to it, I wouldnt have opened this up until permas were installed. As it is, climb the easy route and bring at least 2 extra draws to hang on bolts 4 and 5, the 2nd and 3rd after the ledge.
6
Mdjagg said on January 7th, 2020
Btw, the admins completely changed my description by saying "high clip the 4th and 5th bolts". It specifically said to pre hang the draws until permas are installed. Not sure why they would do that.
7
climb2core said on January 7th, 2020
Perhaps adding a bolt and shuffling the other two could reduce ledge fall potential? I've bolted my share of ledges and and always felt over bolting was the best option.
8
Anonymous said on January 7th, 2020
Haha. “If you don’t climb xyz grade you shouldn’t get on this” that’s the funniest most wanna be elitist shit I’ve ever heard to defend a bullshit bolt job. But, if they can climb 5.10 and pre-hang draws, then they’re allowed on it?
9
Mdjagg said on January 7th, 2020
Again, unless you've been on it, you dont know what you're talking about. I've fallen at every bolt, and I'm perfectly fine. I have no intention of bolting "spicy" routes. The flow of the climb is perfect for the clipping stances, and any more would just make for extra work through the strenuous sections. I know of a bunch of routes that I'm not strong enough for yet where blowing a clip would be bad. It's just a suggestion/warning. I bolted this with non subsidized bolts, for myself, and I loved it. Climb it, don't climb it, it's up to you. I'll even put two more bolts in for all the 9+ climbers looking to break into 11+.
10
Mdjagg said on January 7th, 2020
Also, it's extremely easy to TR this route without leading it by climbing the route to the left.
11
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
If this section of wall wasn't crap, these lines would have been bolted already. There is a reason why Matt Tackett and Blake Bowling passed on this section of choss. People will bolt anything these days. What a waste of glue-ins. Flat Hollow has a kick ass bike trail that I hope is rediscovered one day. The waste of glue-ins here, would have been better spent rebolting The Get Away; the original and best section of Flat Hollow. Bolted by Porter himself in the 90's. He was here long before anyone and bolted the best. These garbage routes are left overs, of left overs, of left overs. Three generations of left overs. Lol!!! If Mdjagg had a sense of history, he might have rebolted some classics instead lowering the bar to it's lowest low.
12
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Perma-draws on a tightly bolted vert route?? What is the Red River world coming to?
13
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Agreed. Maybe somebody will bolt the moss the left of these routes. Maybe not. Let's hope not.
14
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
I hope that he hangs permas, so i can collect them later and put them on more deserving routes.
15
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Wait a minute. You're going to add two more bolts to an already over bolted pile of shit? So there will be 13 bolts for 80ft? Dear God!
16
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
The developer says that you can fall at any bolt and be just fine yet he also HIGHLY recommends prehanging draws? That's completely contradictory.
17
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
If other climbers paid for the land, the developer has a duty to make sure the bolting is well done. I don't know anything about this route, but just buying bolts and drilling doesn't make a rock climb. The land-per-route is by far the most expensive part of the process. Do the math: The price-per-route at Miller Fork is around $500. That doesn't include cost of roads, parking lots, etc., etc. Don't mess up that investment made with other climbers' money. If the rock has potential, someone else will bolt it.
18
milspecmark said on January 8th, 2020
No good deed goes unpunished
19
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Land Cost per route... Get the fluff out of town with that fancy big city businessman talk.. The real issue right now is weather this should have gone online as a top-rope route or not!?!
20
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
And if its so easy to "pre hang draws " from the route next to it...... Ima just go ahead and say it .... SQUEEZE
21
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
In the Red, the real issue always is weather.
22
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Mdjagg, I appreciate your enthusiasm for both development and trail building. As you can see there’s more than meets the eye to both. Everyone starts in the same place. Fortunately, there are some generous climbers who will share their time and experience with the next generation. But while you’re pontificating on MP about snaking routes, keep in mind that your perspectives will change the longer you climb. As for the experienced bolters, how about offering to take the guy out and show him how you would improve it?
23
Mdjagg said on January 8th, 2020
If I cared about any of your opinions, i would have called for an Eyes Wide Shut style meeting before i bolted these routes. Talks of stealing gear just means I wont be doing any more work on this route. Climb it as previously described, or dont. RRC used to be a decent climbing resource, now people critique routes and vote on grades before they've even climbed them.
24
Mdjagg said on January 8th, 2020
I bolted this with the intention of leaving two permadraws, which meant less bolts, and the highest possible reachable placement for protecting from the ledge, but now we have meth heads talking about stealing shit, so I'm just going to leave it as is. A shame we cant respect each other enough to leave fixed gear in place. If you want $2 of galvanized chain and a $2 quicklink, pm me.
25
Steezmcgee said on January 8th, 2020
Can't wait to tick this on TR.
26
whoneedsfeet said on January 8th, 2020
By continuing to try and defend how much you don’t care about the communities option you show how much you do care. If you bolted the route for yourself you would bolt it, climb it, and leave it to rust.
27
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2020
Mountain Project says 4-star route, highest rated at Velo Crag. Both votes from the developer and his buddy who got Roadside closed.
28
Yasmeen said on January 10th, 2020
Hey Mdjagg, Doesn't look like you got my PM, so here it is: Here's the text that was submitted via the form: Sustained, technical, and powerful climbing on a gently overhanging face, featuring amazing precision finger slots, hard crimps, pockets, and feet you'd wish were a little better.This climb is pitched back just enough to pump you out before the crux if you're moving slow. Battle through the crux and stay patient going to the anchor. High clip the 4th and 5th draws to protect from the ledge below. I copy and pasted it. If you want the description changed, feel free to PM me a new one or post one in the comments. Also, I deleted the sideways photo as you requested.
29
ray said on January 10th, 2020
So mdjagg is saying that we changed the description even though it was copied and pasted exactly as mdjagg provided? Yasmeen, did you disable the conspiracy theory toggle on your mouse before the copy/paste?
30
climb2core said on January 10th, 2020
I am sure the route is just fine. Once people climb it he can get some real feedback and tweak the bolts if necessary. Just part of the developing game. And developing a thick skin cause god knows everyone else would do it better,
31
Anonymous said on January 10th, 2020
Damn called out hard by the nicest person in the entire RRG climbing scene, that's when you know it's bad
32
Mdjagg said on January 10th, 2020
Nice! Calling me out for thinking a few words were changed and no mention of people threatening to steal fixed gear. I have all the respect in the world for you guys running this ship, I mentioned it becasue without knowing to hang your own draws if permas aren't in place means potential injury.
33
Anonymous said on January 10th, 2020
Just going to leave this here https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118231882/threats-of-fixed-gear-being-stolen
34
Cromper said on January 10th, 2020
Lol this is goonery at its finest. Love it
35
Anonymous said on January 10th, 2020
I think it's settled that no one actually is going to steal the permas. For everyone else commenting on the route quality, go climb it and then either hate on it or love it with some authority.
36
DrRockso said on January 10th, 2020
If you knowingly bolted a route, which in it's current condition is dangerous, you need to close the route until it is made safe. This isn't a trad route or a route in your friends backyard, other developers shouldn't have to go behind you to fix your routes.
37
dustonian said on January 10th, 2020
Agree with Cromper, there is definitely some grade-A goonery going down here
38
inwardj said on January 11th, 2020
[insert meme of me eating popcorn watching a shitfire start] gotta love redriverclimbing
39
whoneedsfeet said on January 12th, 2020
This Reminds me of summer 2016, at least the bits of it I can remember between grey outs.
40
Rx2Climb said on January 12th, 2020
You guys really bitching about it being safe? Look at the start of No Place Like Home......No one is complaining about that. Put a R or PG13 on it, STFU, and go climb!.........IMHO
41
Anonymous said on January 12th, 2020
But did you die?
42
Anonymous said on January 12th, 2020
Someone without by guidebook can see there's no bolt on NPLH for 40 feet. It's impossible to miss it if you're starting up the route. Not commenting on any specific route, but it's a different situation if you realize poor bolt placement mid-clip or mid-fall.
43
Anonymous said on January 14th, 2020
5.11d- PG13+
44
Anonymous said on January 14th, 2020
PG13+ my ass. The route is fine they way it is. I never understood why people climb sport routes with a helmet on. Go gumby go!!
45
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
Because some people have brains underneath their skull? Oh, I forgot. People never get head injuries sport climbing :)
46
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
Well someone definitely sustained some serious head damage. Bolting this turd is evidence of that.
47
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
The Mountain Project thread got shut down and here is one of the reasons why. The bolter of this route wrote this about his own route. Ma Ja wrote: Go for it. There's one on each route. I hope someone dies or gets horribly injured becasue of your childishness. I don't know who this guy is but wow... Just wow! That is a pretty horrible thing to say.
48
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
I didn’t take it literally when someone said they’d steal draws. I didn’t take literally when someone said they hoped someone died. Everything that can be said about this subject has already been said.
49
Mdjagg said on January 17th, 2020
Your post is out of context, and i would never say that. Unfortunately there was an editing mistake that I realized a few minutes after the post and when I wen to fix it, the internet's unelected hall monitor, Ian Kirk already screenshot it. He's been really trying hard with the screenshots as of late. I would never wish for that, I literally started that thread to make sure that doesnt happen, and only a douche would try to stamp that into history.
50
climb2core said on January 17th, 2020
"editing mistake" Lol You should work for Trump.
51
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
This Ma Ja character sounds like he suffers from having a split personality. The route is dangerous and needs permas yet he has fallen from every bolt and the route is just fine. Ma Ja also states that he would never say that he hopes death and injury to others yet he is quoted saying just that. What world does this guy live in? Climb2core is right. This guy is Trump material all day long. Oh yeah, and this site is fake news.
52
Mdjagg said on January 17th, 2020
My mistake doesnt change the fact that you're a tool, and you keep proving it over and over. Even 2nd graders hate hall monitors. PM sent.
53
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
The world needs more hall monitors. Thanks for exposing this chump Ian.
54
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
The name of this route is becoming all too ironic.
55
Mdjagg said on January 17th, 2020
It seems worthy at ths point of describing the mistake, so here ya go... I wrote quite a few things that I ended up completely rewording/rephrasing, and mistakenly left "SOMEONE", which made sense the way it was originally written, but after the rephrasing, it should have been replaced with "NO ONE", which it was moments later when I realized the mistake. If you go back and re read all of my posts, the only negative things I've said was directed at Anons talking about stealing gear, people giving feedback on a route they'd never seen, and Ian, the douche that i was warned about years ago, who seems to have nothing better to do than try to change the world 1 screenshot at a time. My name is Matthew Jaggers, and I'd be happy to meet up with any of you and discuss any of your concerns. And yeah, the Velo trail IS a concern, which is why I put the effort in to fix it. As it is, the original trail goes straight through a waterfall drainage, and the foot traffic ALREADY killed a massive old tree, plus it has killed all of the ground vegetation, which is only going to make things worse for slowing the erosion. I'd love to have a group meeting about all of this. Last I tried, no one was responsive at all. I'm all about making the Red a better place for us all, I was warned that the old guard was not very welcoming, but I didnt expect this level of hatred.
56
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
Keep back pedaling bro. It's like quicksand. The more you try to get out it, the more you sink.
57
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
This is the best. I can't wait for Matthew to bolt more routes. 2020 is looking up.
58
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
So first this guy says that Yasmeen changed his description and then he just made a typo when wishing harm or death upon others. Then he gets called out on both. I wouldn’t trust anything this guy says, let alone his ability to competently bolt a route.
59
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
How old are you Matthew?
60
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
Stop me if you have heard this joke before. Matthew walks into the RRG climbing scene and immediately falls into a bottomless pit...
61
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
I love how this route has already been downgraded to .11a. Hilarious.
62
Steezmcgee said on January 17th, 2020
Posting screen shots is a NARC move... Change my mind
63
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
Private conversations, yeah. But shit you say publicly-that’s on you. Own it
64
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2020
...says Anon. You own nothing.
65
Mdjagg said on January 17th, 2020
Blake talked me into uploading to RRC becasue it is "more accurate". Maybe 10 years ago when the users had a bit of respect for this site, and each other.
66
Anonymous said on January 18th, 2020
Matt, You are young, psyched and overly confident (aka arrogant). When you look back on your approach to all of this, you will understand its not that everyone else in the world is an asshole... Calm down, look at the world from others perspectives. In 10 years...you will regret the way you played this.
67
Anonymous said on January 18th, 2020
from MP, Matthew says: “you people are all the same.” I learned long ago that if all the people you meet are assholes, its because you are the asshole.
68
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2020
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaR1Jm7hjmE
69
Mdjagg said on January 20th, 2020
https://youtu.be/BCmQN6nZz14
70
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2020
I think my favorite thing in this whole thread is how Shadow makes it clear immediately, that he was not involved in this route.
71
climbhigh said on January 20th, 2020
go find and use the ohm cave there and safety the fuck up. if that dont help, go throw rights in the motherload parking lot. a little bloodshot eyes and some busted lips can be a good thing....
72
Mdjagg said on January 20th, 2020
Me too. He knows you guys well.
73
Anonymous said on January 21st, 2020
As far as the “he didn’t know he needed a permit” argument, that’s a little easier to believe when his tick list doesn’t show 13 visits to the crag from 10/7/17 to 10/8/19.
74
Anonymous said on January 21st, 2020
I think he knew to get his name off this mess of route as soon as possible.
75
Anonymous said on January 30th, 2020
Lol leave it to Ian to be the whiny narc and post screen shots of an argument on another website.... Well done.
76
Anonymous said on January 30th, 2020
Wait, wait, wait.... Ian our safety/hall monitor was seriously offended enough to repost a comment from MP on here? You honestly took that as a legitimate death threat and felt the need to repost it? Toughen up honey.
77
Anonymous said on February 10th, 2020
Wait what happened to "Trail Wars" 11a? lol
78
Anonymous said on February 10th, 2020
Oh WowThis Route Sounds ReallyGood I Can't WaitTo Climb It I Just Climbed V5 At The Gym I Think I'm Ready For A 5.1 Lead Climb
79
Anonymous said on February 10th, 2020
"This climb requires an attentive belay to protect from the ledge. " I like this wording. We all climb at our own risk. If you find it too sketchy, just move on to one of the other thousands of climbs in the RRG.
80
whatahutch said on February 10th, 2020
My two cents... I like this name better than trail wars. My two cents about the trail. It's better now and will cut down on the impacts of erosion directly under the dripline of the cliffs.
81
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2020
I onsight down-soloed this in my approach shoes, felt soft.
82
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2020
I say this because I'm bored and want to stir up useless drama.
83
Mdjagg said on April 29th, 2020
If you do it again for me, I'll give you a crisp $100 bill. I'd love to see that!