COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

House of the Flying Squirrel

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

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Tourist Attractions 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Hunter Spurlock, Matthew Jaggers in 2019
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Far left side of Velo, 50 yards left of Lightning Rod Arete. This is the middle of the three lines that start on the face of the large boulder. Fingery, sustained climbing, with thought provoking moves, makes for a challenging onsight with several cruxes, and feels longer than it is. Just enough angle to spit you off if your endurance is suspect.
Moves: Edges and Crimps
Descent: Offset Anchor with Quick Links
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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2.4 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (2 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Aug 10th, 2020

Submitted by: Mdjagg
Date: Jul 22nd, 2020

Comments

1
Cromper said on June 12th, 2020
Enjoyable climbing after the ledge.
2
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2020
This one is ok
3
Anonymous said on July 2nd, 2020
What's up with the janky duct taped permas on these routes?
4
Mdjagg said on July 3rd, 2020
It's there so you dont have to hang the draw on the cruxy clip above the ledge. The climber's tape is there to keep the carabiner from flipping upside down. There's no duct tape. The tape is not doing anything other than keeping the carabiner in its proper orientation. I have some rubber accessory keepers that are specifically made for this, but havent been there to swap them out. I'll change them out next week. Btw, you can always hang your own draw.
5
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2020
Oh geezus here we go again with this guy... jenky fixed draws for "cruxy" clips" on vertical 5.10 LOL
6
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2020
Haven’t multiple falls resulted from tape on biners?
7
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2020
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213515/Fall-On-Rock-Inexperience-Faulty-Use-Of-Equipment
8
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2020
On the bright side, if it holds your all, you know there's more than just tape holding you. I'm not worried. Not like the bolted wishes harm to anyone.
9
Mdjagg said on July 3rd, 2020
This route name is so fitting it makes me laugh, thank you, Hunter! Ingrate tourists, complaining about quality hardware left for your convenience. Priceless. Hang your own draws if you're scared the equipper (me) doesnt know how to clip a carabiner through a chain.
10
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
I am the anonymous commenter, I live in Lee County and have for the past 7 years. Can you tell me more about these ingrate tourist from Louisville are coming in my backyard and putting up janky aluminum carabiners duct taped to chain as a pathetic excuse for 'fixed gear.'
11
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
Tourists live all over.
12
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
This jagg guy never seems to change or learn anything, he's hopeless
13
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
I'll just take the permas down this week. Please feel free to put up some to your specs, youd be doing everyone a favor. Thanks in advance!
14
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
Cool! Please feel free to stop bolting easy vertical routes in a way that necessitates fixed draws. Thanks in advance!
15
One-Fall said on July 4th, 2020
2 cents: with the accessibility of the grade and how that ledge is in play, I personally think the permas will limit ledge fall potential, and if you are willing, they should stay. Thanks for the routes.
16
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
Seems like at least one person has climbed the route to know they are helpful. How about a compromise. I switch out the "janky" brand new aluminum carabiners for some steel biners with a keeper pin. Win-win-win.
17
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
Or you could just put the bolts in the right place to begin with
18
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
And you're welcome, One Fall. Thank you for appreciating the efforts.
19
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
Classic Ma Ja. Someone points out that tape can conceal a safety hazard, and Ma Ja reacts like someone shot his mother. Ma Ja, if you want to avoid the criticism, either be humble and ask experienced developers to show them everything they know, or stop doing stuff you only think you understand.
20
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
God the comments about "tourists" are so cluelessly idiotic, elitist, and painful to read
21
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
If you're from Louisville and been climbing for like 4 years, you must be pretty smug seeing someone from Indianapolis who has been climbing for 2. That's double true if you have no clue that half the people at Drive-By have been climbing 20 years.
22
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
Ma Ja demonstrates exactly why so many climbing areas have had to institute route development "by permit only"... sadly it seems to be time for the RRGCC to do the same.
23
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
Classic RRC, to bring a non existant safety hazard into question about hardware that is brand new and functioning perfectly. Ironically the smugness of people who dont contribute shit to the area, and hide behind an anonymous post wants to lecture other people about them not doing something well enough. Yeah, I used tape to pin a biner down so it wouldnt rotate, and I did it in a way that you can clearly see that the biner is going through the chain, and not hiding the connection point. But, you all saw it with your own eyes, that's how you can jump to such conclusions accurately. Here's an option, hold your opinion about a route or its hardware until you climb the route yourself.
24
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
I'm over here begging Curtis for trail work because most of the organizd work is canceled this year, meanwhile you morons are causing useless trouble over a non existent issue as usual. Grow the fuck up. Do something productive with yourself. Take pride in something other than your screenshot scrapbook of your anonymous postings.
25
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
LMAO here we go again....
26
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119150944/how-to-tape-a-biner-from-rotating-on-a-perma-without-blocking-the-view-of-the-co
27
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
It's not just the biner bro... you're also unqualified in all other areas of climbing and route development
28
Mdjagg said on July 4th, 2020
Good thing we dont need anonymous Karen's approval to go climbing then.
29
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
What's all this stuff about Hunter and Karen? Are those your imaginary friends? You're starting to sound kinda psychotic haha
30
Jared420_69 said on July 4th, 2020
Thy b the most polarizing figure to enter the eastern KY climbing scene. A true legend who no troll could ever top cause sometimes the truth is even wilder.
31
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2020
Yeah man honestly if I had to pick between being any to climb any 1-star majagg FA or roadside still being open..... I know which one id pick. This kid sucks
32
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2020
Ben is a good man