COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

Tourist Attractions


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House of the Flying Squirrel 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Chase Schone, Matthew Jaggers in 2019
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Far left side of Velo, 50 yards past Lightning Rod Arete. This is the far left line that starts on the face of the large boulder, just left of where the wall and pinnacle are split. Bouldery start to a ledge rest. Clip the extension chain at the 2nd bolt, or bring an extendable draw. Clip the 3rd bolt from the roof jug, then find amazing features, with sinker jugs, iron bands, a whole arm slot, and some balancey crimp moves along the way. Respect the Flying Squirrel, if you're lucky enough to meet 'em.
Moves: Big Moves, Technical
Descent: Offset Anchor with Quick Links
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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2.5 stars (2 votes)
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5.10c (1 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2020
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118871290/picturesdiagramsvideos-for-making-a-bolt-bending-jig
2
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2020
Jesus Christ this guy just does not stop. My favorite part is when he blames Ian for getting roadside closed, when Ian was respecting the land owners wishes by reporting people like Ma Ja's friend for breaking the rules.
3
Mdjagg said on May 24th, 2020
Talking to yourself, about yourself, is pretty weird, Ian. And you forgot to blemish Tourist Attractions... Go.
4
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2020
This is about one thing and one thing only. People don't want to be 99.9% sure a bolt is safe. They want to be 99.999999% safe. That's it. Period. It's that simple. People want to be 99.999999% sure they will not die or end up in a wheelchair become someone else wanted to save $1 for himself. There is no conspiracy. There is no "gang up on Matt." It's not Ian's buddies or an unwelcoming approach to outsiders. There is nothing going on except people want bolts made only by people with a long long track record of bolts not failing ever. If I'm walking around the forest and see a new route and hope on it, I would be pissed to later learn that the bolter played Russian Roulette to with MY LIFE so he could save HIS $1. That will never be worth it to anyone except the bolter. So Matt, do not take it personally when people chop these bolts. It's not a statement against you. It's just not worth even the a tiny minor itty bitty increase in risk to them. Why would it be? They're not saving the $1. THE WHOLE REASON WHY PEOPLE DONATE TO RRG FGI AND SIMILAR GROUPS IS TO HAVE THE SAFEST BOLTS IMAGINABLE. That's it. My safety. My friends's safety. That's it. Don't get mad. Just like you, I've never made a bolt. I'm just doing to admit I *might* not get it perfect every time and maybe there's a chance someone gets dead. It's that simple. Dead = bad. Pro bolts = cheap. Homemade bolts maybe = dead so = bad.
5
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2020
In the 17th century, if a woman was accused of being a witch, she would be tied up and thrown in a lake. If she did not drown, then clearly she was a witch. If she died, then not a witch. ---- Fast forward 400 years and Ma Ja wrote, “How is it possible that people are threatened by bolts that dont even exist yet?” I guess we could whip on Ma Ja’s homemade steel a few thousand times and see who dies. If no one dies, then Ian is a witch. Or, maybe we could say “Accused People are Innocent Until Proven Guilty,” and “Homemade Bolts are Deemed Dangerous Until Proven Safe.”
6
Mdjagg said on May 24th, 2020
This has to be the most ridiculous thing I've ever read. The fact that this drama has made it's way from the MP trolls to here just proves how insane you people are. All of the bolts I've EVER placed have been commercially bought and paid for myself, I didn't even save a dollar, I paid full price, from either Wavebolt's website, or the Twist Bolt from Team Tough. Please dont start a costly war by doing something extremely dumb. I promise you that everyone in the entire community at large would be very sad by the end. And again with the threats from the RRC goons. If you have an issue with me or any of my routes, I suggest contacting me directly.
7
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2020
Matt, you’re saying you get to decide if other people are unknowing guinea pigs in your bolt-making experiment. There will be no experimenting on human test subjects in the Red.
8
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2020
Ma Ja, The comments in this thread are NOT about your past routes. The comments are about homemade bolts.
9
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2020
(1) I will test the bolts. (2) I hope someone dies. (3) I care about the community's safety. (4) I will start a costly war that leaves everyone sad in the end. (5) Why doesn't anyone want to whip on my bolts?
10
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2020
In some ways I feel for this Jagg guy. But man he really does bring a lot of this on himself. I think it's just a case of wounded pride now, and he can't bring himself to apologize and move on. Maybe it's a masculinity thing or something.