COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

ED

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

KS


13a.
+0
0 votes

BG 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Sean Strawmyer, Dave Tynan, Barry Brolley, Giovanni de Luca in 2020
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
On the right face just around the arete from ED. Climb the face until the holds fade, then reach around the arete for a blind side-pull. Work the arete until the bolts stop just before some large blocks, then run it out on easy climbing to get on top of the ledge containing anchors for ED. Clip one more bolt with an extended draw, if you wish, then make a few more moves to the chains above ED's anchor. Bolted during BG's ("Big Gio's") first weekend back to climbing after a medical hiatus.
Moves: crimps and pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.69 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (11 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 6th, 2021

Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Mar 27th, 2020

Comments

1
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2020
How do four people get an FA? Seems unsafe to have that many people on one route at once.
2
strawmyers said on July 26th, 2020
I did the bolting and actual FA of the route, but everyone listed had some part in its development. Look around at other routes: its not uncommon to have more than one person listed.
3
wsimek said on August 7th, 2020
Worthy addition, although I felt cheated out of more climbing by the low anchor placement.
4
DrRockso said on August 7th, 2020
I agree Billy, I tried to get Sean to take it further. It goes on gear after that.
5
strawmyers said on September 7th, 2020
Erik, you still have the permission given months ago to take it up as high as it goes. We only had two bolts left that day, anyway, so even if there was enough time there wasn't enough gear. I'll eventually get around to it, but if it can get done sooner than wherever it is on my list I'm all for it!
6
DrRockso said on September 7th, 2020
We can wait! Routes don't have to be finished or opened in a single day, in fact it's very rare that they do.
7
strawmyers said on July 6th, 2021
Extension is up, and can be used as a continuation of the sport line BG or trad line ED (clip the bolts or also protects with gear). See listing for KS. Enjoy!