COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium


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BG 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Sean Strawmyer, Dave Tynan, Barry Brolley, Giovanni de Luca in 2020
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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On the right face just around the arete from ED. Climb the face until the holds fade, then reach around the arete for a blind side-pull. Work the arete until the bolts stop just before some large blocks, then run it out on easy climbing to get on top of the ledge containing anchors for ED. Clip one more bolt with an extended draw, if you wish, then make a few more moves to the chains above ED's anchor. Bolted during BG's ("Big Gio's") first weekend back to climbing after a medical hiatus.
Moves: crimps and pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

2.5 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10 (4 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Mar 27th, 2020


Anonymous said on July 12th, 2020
How do four people get an FA? Seems unsafe to have that many people on one route at once.
strawmyers said on July 26th, 2020
I did the bolting and actual FA of the route, but everyone listed had some part in its development. Look around at other routes: its not uncommon to have more than one person listed.
wsimek said on August 7th, 2020
Worthy addition, although I felt cheated out of more climbing by the low anchor placement.
DrRockso said on August 7th, 2020
I agree Billy, I tried to get Sean to take it further. It goes on gear after that.