Horz

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Tower Rock

Razor's Edge


15.
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0 votes

Curving Crack 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Larry Day, Tom Seibert in 1978
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk 40 feet right of Groundhog to locate this obtuse dihedral. Climb the flake to a perch 30 feet up, tackle a bulge and take the crack to a ledge. Finish on Caver's Route.
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.33 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (23 votes)

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Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Mar 11th, 2008

Comments

1
tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
The first, adn I believe ONLY climb I ever left a peice in in the Red (red tricam under the flake a partner hung on could not be cleaned).
2
AdventureBrandon said on October 30th, 2004
Take a nice rest before the bulge - the clear crux. Move with Faith!
3
climbhigh said on February 24th, 2006
very fun route. if you like moderate trad with a variety of moves and commiting do this route !
4
Peng said on April 13th, 2009
Yes yes yes, anyone looking for a moderate trad that will make you feel good about your trad leading skills should do this one. Impressive looking moves that are easy because there are more holds than you need there. Trust that it's all there, commit and voilĂ  ! Protects really well as well.
5
MartyV said on May 18th, 2009
I thought the pro was sketchy after the bulge. It's protectable but not the best.
6
rjackson said on May 25th, 2009
The crux is well-defined. Big gear protects the top easily (think BIG).
7
kman154 said on September 14th, 2009
I really did not like this route much. It was really dirty in the offwidth. I guess I was not thinking big enough for the top. Maybe I should give it a second try to see if my mind changes.
8
jay2718 said on July 7th, 2010
Getting past the bulge and into the off-width is the crux. It is harder than 5.8. There are no particularly positive holds, which creates the potential to "pop" off in an awkward position. A #1 Alien/Tech Friend protects the lower part of the bulge.
9
CLIMBTRAD said on July 4th, 2011
The tree everyone is using to rapp from is rotten better to finish on cavers and rap from top
10
KhaoticKlimber said on May 21st, 2019
Beta alert for the crux bulge: using the offwidth isn't required. The good holds are to the left. Reach high for the bombers.