COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sweet Petunia

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Alcatraz

Flight Risk


23a.
+0
0 votes

Maximum Security AZ-1441 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Castro, Art Cammers, Kenneth Johns, Frances Werner-Wilson, Scott Brown in 2020
Length: 120ft
Bolts: 17 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This escape from Alcatraz requires at least a 70 meter rope. Downhill, to the climber's right of Sweet Petunia, stand on a large boulder that sits above the drainage. Lean forward to touch rock; crank up and left to the obvious ledge. Shoulder through the short, forbidding offwidth section to stand on the prow. Climb straight up to the roof and take a hard right; the line trends up and right from here. A few stays of execution alleviate the length of the route. When you reach the chains above the large hueco, savor the vista of the sprawling valley bounded by box canyon. Use the permanent gear to direct your rope on the way down to efficiently remove your draws.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: unknown
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (5 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 1st, 2020

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 1st, 2020

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 1st, 2020

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 1st, 2020

Comments

1
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2020
Jesus this thing sounds bonkers. What kind of sorcery is this?
2
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2020
Pics or it didn't happen!
3
Jared420_69 said on September 1st, 2020
Another five star line for miller, I think miller fork now has more four and five star routes then the rest of the entire red combined. Man what a find
4
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2020
You would be thinking wrong then... or more likely just not thinking? A quick "Advanced" search available to you at the top of this page returns 16 five-star routes for Miller and 114 for "the rest of the entire Red combined"
5
caribe said on September 2nd, 2020
:-( A duplicate image loaded when I refreshed the page . Max. Sec. AZ-1441 is a good addition, but lacks the grade consistency of it's neighbor, Fatal Vision Arete (5-stars). Game Boy at Long Wall is listed as 140' > 70 m/2 (115'). However there is more of the 70 m rope left on the ground on Game Boy than on Max. Sec. AZ-1441. A 60 m rope did not make it to the ground. Enjoy <3
6
climb2core said on September 2nd, 2020
I had debated bolting this route. Glad someone else did and not me, lol.
7
caribe said on September 2nd, 2020
10-4 Ian, when you step back and look up at the head wall you think, that it needs to be climbed.
8
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2020
omg...5 people on an FA and a mini dissertation to describe a route? jack sparrow would never.
9
dustonian said on September 2nd, 2020
Haha yeah I thought about it too but the amount of cleaning required looked insane
10
Sco Bro said on September 3rd, 2020
The climb is so tall that we had to do it relay race style. I really enjoyed this route. The crux is getting to the first ledge. Unless ur a true one trick pony.
11
shadow.ayala said on September 3rd, 2020
I debated bolting it myself. Nice to see it finished. One person to bolt it and four people to clean. Nice work fellas.
12
dustonian said on September 3rd, 2020
Agreed... nice looking line
13
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
2 people get the FA on the line, not seven. Why are people so worried about getting credit for stuff these days? Do you want to add your mom, jesus, and neighbor Jeff to the FA list and everyone that has supported you through this process?
14
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
I believe it was 5 people on the FA not 7 but still pretty funny to list 5 people as getting the FA.... Look at me!!! Pay attention to me! FA means "first ascent" not "I helped clean the line"...
15
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
(1) Why do you care? (2) You also advocate arbitrary criteria ("2 people get the FA on the line"). First ascent, technically, means the first person to climb the route, w/ all relevant stipulations about style depending on discipline. So, you're annoyed that it's "seven" people but that seems just as reasonable as two. Both are perversions of the strict definition of first ascent. So any deviations from that principle are equally egregious and you're point, insofar as you had a coherent one, falls apart. (3) Again, more forcefully, WHO CARES? If people want to shout out those who helped them get a route up and running, I don't see who is harmed by that.
16
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
I guess learn your climbing history? 2 people, or just 1, is the generally agreed upon FA's that get listed... Feel free to list your entire family, jesus, the guy next door, and your cousins dog as FA members though but know we are laughing at you. Its literally "FIRST ASCENT" not "person who helped me scrub the rock".
17
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
If you're going by historical definitions having two people on first ascent is hilarious. It made sense going up a mountain, which each team member is a contributor to the ascent, simply belaying or being the second person to climb it doesn't really meet the historical definition because single pitch sport routes wouldn't be a thing for many years.
18
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
Damn it’s almost like developers walk past lines everyday still in the rrg.
19
climbhigh said on September 4th, 2020
Another 11 in a sea of 11's..... you mean the first person to climb this 11 won't go into climbings hall of fame, get their nuts off for free at the rest area or have group sex on the pizza oven with no consequence and free beer for life ? yall act like its special to climb another mediocre moderate in the land of mediocre moderates first, after its been rap bolted, top roped to death to figure out bolt placement and every hold scrubbed and tick marked...to me the list on the FA was to help my stoner ass remember who was there, who brought the weed, who i had after climbing beers with, who was fucking who at the time. my fa lists have people that are no longer with us, and looking at those sometimes helps me remember the good and bad times. as someone else said, does it really matter? you're not carrying on some great unwritten samurai code by only listing the guy that climbed it first, if you think you are, well, that doesnt matter either, carry on
20
ray said on September 4th, 2020
It actually is only two people on the FA. One woman and one man. Frances is one woman, and Art, Sco, Jeff, and Kenneth together equal one man.
21
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2020
Guys, I’m really sorry but I made a mistake and forgot that anonymous was with us and should really be added to the FA. If an admin could put them on the list I think that would solve the issue.
22
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2020
These crazy long 1-pitch route descriptions are killing me haha
23
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2020
Right on, climbhigh. Fuck the haters.
24
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2020
I am shock at how much anonymous has to say. What a creative screen name. And to throw Jack Sparrow under the bus.
25
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2020
Can I get the beta for every step from my door in lexington until I am safely back on the ground of this climb?