Razor's Edge

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Tower Rock

Caver's Excitement


17.
+2
2 votes

Caver's Route 5.3 R (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Locate a chimney system 20 feet right of Razor's Edge near the southwest corner of the wall. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Chimney up to a bolt, clip it and continue to the ledge. Belay from the ledge. Walk up the gully and down into a hole in the rock to a chimney on the opposite side. Climb up the chimney to a ledge under an arch. Walk under the arch and climb up into the chimney to the top.
FA information unknown but probably done in the 1950's. Variation: Squeeze straight up the chimney at the top of the second pitch instead of crawling down through the hole in the rock.
Moves: Chimney
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
runout (1) long (1) classic (1) adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.36 stars (55 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.4 (41 votes)

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Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Aug 6th, 2013

Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Dec 13th, 2012

Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Aug 15th, 2012

Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Aug 15th, 2012

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 17th, 2006

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 17th, 2006

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 17th, 2006

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 17th, 2006

Comments

1
Buster said on January 22nd, 2003
My first lead, 1978.
2
ynot said on January 24th, 2003
fun as hell,lets go do it.
3
hamsco said on June 9th, 2003
every climber should do this route as a rite of passage into RRG climbing
4
said on June 14th, 2004
this route kicks ass! Way more fun than anyone should be allowed to have!!
5
AdventureBrandon said on October 30th, 2004
You just gotta do it!
6
the lurkist said on November 19th, 2004
My first route in the Gorge, 1981 with my big brother Robert who got me hooked.
7
Gobstopper said on May 13th, 2005
First route in the gorge in 1992, solo and unroped. Great experience!
8
RRO said on June 9th, 2005
Took my lil bro up it a few days ago. So much fun ! Everyone should get on it.
9
Anonymous said on August 15th, 2005
hi is there is a big ass woman
10
Danny said on October 18th, 2005
For some extra adventure rap down through the narrow chimney. Before it gets really tight take yourself off rappel, drop your harness and squeeze through. Another rap variation is to drape the rope nicely over some briars and branches and rap to the end of the rope which gets you to a point where you can safely downclimb. This requires only a single rap and is easy to pull the rope.
11
ynot said on November 21st, 2005
Take a green,blue,and a gold bro and only the last 10 feet are run out.
12
ewaaser said on February 3rd, 2006
FYI - a 47-inch chest (my partner's) will not fit through the squeeze chimney on the 3rd pitch......and downclimbing this route is a pain. Incidentally, you can get down from the top on a single 60 m rope by walking back down the ridge about 50 ft and rapping off the tree on your right that has webbing on it.
13
Sco Bro said on April 3rd, 2006
5 stars for its uniqueness, one star for the quality of climbing. An easy, but very poorly protected route.
14
Papatrad said on May 4th, 2006
I recently took my wife up it and she's a grandmother of three (OK, a very fit one....). She loved the climb, but hated the lack of pro. I think that is what makes it a treasure and an adventure. This was my fourth time...do it!
15
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Definately agree, Caver's is a rite of passage and a heck of a lot of fun. Might as well solo it though cause the protection isn't really going to help you anyway...
16
belay slave said on October 3rd, 2006
How do I get back the time I wasted on this route? Really want to climb this route??? Stem your staircase at home and save the gas money.
17
Ascentionist said on October 3rd, 2006
It's too bad you can't appreciate a fantastic easy route. This is a great adventure route. Stick with sport so you're not disappointed on any other classic trad routes.
18
Wolf said on October 3rd, 2006
Some people can't appreciate easy movement, crawling through holes, and great views. Tis a pity.
19
ReachHigh said on October 9th, 2006
Funnest route I have ever been on. Climbing, scrambling and caving in one route.
20
rrgclimber07 said on June 24th, 2007
me and my buddy climbed this on our day off....i didnt think that i was claustrophobic untill i had to shimmy through that tight tunnel it was definently an adventure! fun route
21
Anonymous said on October 26th, 2007
I have climbed this route twice now. The first time me and my 48" chest spent about 20 minutes stuck on the third pitch. The second time after a few lost pounds and some better tactics it took me only 5 minutes to shimmy through. (I ended up removing my harness and soloing this portion. If I had fallen all I had to do was take a deep breath and I stopped almost immediately. What a fun climb, but the tree we always rap off is a little unnerving for a 250lb guy to support his weight on.
22
Lander said on December 4th, 2007
Me and lurkist and his bro Andy did this back in the mid eighties when we were newbies. It was such a great intro to climbing. It seemed so adventureous. Love it, love it, love it!
23
Wes said on April 3rd, 2008
Good chimney climb, clip the old bolt for nostalgia, but don't bother bringing any other pro. The third pitch chimney is way easier, and more exposed/fun if you go to the end of the ledge, and climb up and out, rather then trying to start farther back.
24
kisor740 said on October 16th, 2008
its not a trad route its an unprotected high ball caving route thats fun in the dark
25
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
everybody new i bring i take em to cavers
26
pawilkes said on May 27th, 2009
i think we did the variation on the second pitch, i don't see how we could have crawled through the crack by the first anchor. There is a button head on the second pitch that I tied off and I also placed a #2 and .75 on that pitch. the final pitch i had a #1 about half way up the chimney.
27
512OW said on May 27th, 2009
pawilkes, you actually go in, down, then through the hole. Its there, you just can't see it till you go down...
28
anticlmber said on October 29th, 2009
after 9+ years just did this this the other day. AMAZING!! thanks kitten a must do.
29
jrathfon said on April 12th, 2010
Awesome fun route, was iced up in January (go figure), but excellent in hot weather. 3rd pinnacle of the weekend (Jewel, Minas Tirith and Tower). We brought a single rack, and placed both a 0.5 and a #4 on both the first and last pitches. So if you want to keep your team from falling off the mountain, you get that and an old buttonhead on p1. The pro isn't going to help you any, but it's there. Walk back on the top to a pine on the right, opposite side of the start, a 60M rope will just make it, clean hanging pull.
30
jenbongo said on October 6th, 2010
At the top of the first pitch, I walked up the gully and back out the ledge to belay (there was a feature slung with some webbing and a quick link there). From there you walk back in then up only slightly and drop your feet down before you can see the tunnel to climb through. I used a single rack .5 - #4 plus a C3 #2 - could've placed a few more, but it didn't feel too bad. It's only R not X. Coming face to face with a snake in a pocket just above the tunnel ledge added some extra excitement.
31
rjackson said on June 17th, 2012
An awesome afternoon adventure...
32
LK Day said on November 27th, 2012
This was the first rock climb I ever did. It was my first date with a beautiful Mt. Sterling girl from geology class at UK. Me, the girl, and Frank Becker met up with Martin Hackworth for what was supposed to be a day of caving, but Martin had loaned out his spelunking gear and said we were going to have to go rock climbing instead. I didn't even know what rock climbing was. Anyway, it was 7 degrees that morning as we trudged through the snow up to Tower Rock. It was incredibly beautiful with snow on all the ledges and massive ice inside the final chimney pitch. All went well, except that my date had a hell of a time getting her spectacular tits past the squeeze at the top of the bolt "protected" chimney. By the time we summited and started rappelling down the icy chimneys Martha was so terrified, or cold, that she threw her arms around me and wouldn't let go. I was in heaven. I nearly killed us all driving through Stanton, was let go with a traffic ticket, fell head-over-heels in lust with the girl, was all but done with caving, and was now hooked on climbing. Except for the ticket it was one of the best days ever.
33
kwagner059 said on December 13th, 2012
Climbed this 12/12/12 and found new bolts at the top. Now you don't have to choose between leaving gear and rapping off a tree to get to the main ledge or downclimbing the second chimney. Rapping to the ground off of bolts will not reach with a 70 meter rope and wouldn't be recommended due to rope drag. Instead rap off of the new chains to get to the main rap ledge from a large tree.
34
milspecmark said on April 22nd, 2013
Yesterday I left some webbing and a biner around a tree on the opposite side of the route. You can rap all the way down with a 60 meter rope. The 2 ends of the rope will be about 5 feet from the ground but with rope stretch you will hit the ground just fine
35
dustonian said on April 22nd, 2013
I believe there is a bolted rap anchor up there.
36
Anonymous said on January 4th, 2016
There is a new plastic coated metal cable with rap rings on the tree on the Cavers Rap route. One 70m rope with two raps makes it down.
37
Tbaby1234 said on July 13th, 2018
Anyone want to meet up and climb Caver’s on Tuesday morning? (7/17/18)