COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Unbridled

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Unlode

Unfamilia


3a.
+0
0 votes

Unsung 5.10d (Sport) **

First Ascent: Unknown in 2020
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Needs climbed and cleaned up a bit
Moves: Pinches, juggy
Descent: Rams horn open shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 18th, 2020

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 18th, 2020

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 18th, 2020

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 18th, 2020

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Similar to some of the nearby lines, perhaps less juggy overall and a bit of sequential pocket pulling in the middle. Not that dirty for a new line at this wall, but certainly could use more traffic.
2
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
LMAO that anchor 😂😂
3
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Not a good anchor choice for the Red due to typical high volume traffic and the propensity for sandy ropes to wear on hardware. However given the reputation of this crag, they may be fine for decades.
4
Cromper said on November 18th, 2020
what does the nametag say? haha
5
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Looks like it claims FA status and names it lol.... I'm all seriousness this looks like I good route despite the weird "decorations" haha
6
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Added closeup pic of tag. Route was decent for sure. Bolted well and I think the anchor was nice. The tag gave me a mild grin/chuckle so I had to take a pic.
7
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Those are Titt bolts and a Titt rams horn, seems legit; no moving parts and all 316 stainless.
8
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Yes we all know what the parts are lol, that's partly why it's so hilarious 😂
9
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
"No moving parts" LMAO... guy acts like he's building a fuckin engine here haha
10
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Replacing that stupid $20 "ram's horn" is gonna be fun in a few years when you can't get it off the bolt while it's glued in right next to the wall haha
11
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
They pop off with a hammer quite easily. Easier than a rusted quick link.
12
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Someone is trying to make a statement for sure haha... and that statement is "I like to waste money on dumb shit"
13
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
No moving parts was stated because biner springs rust and break over time. But, then again, maybe you are 100% right; maybe an all stainless, gluein anchor with a replaceable lower off is goofy and garbage. Junk show!!! Chop it!
14
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Those rams horns cost $8.71. What a waste, I mean CT Mussies are $6.60. This guy is nuts spending an extra $2.11 like that. Chop it!
15
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
No need to chop, just ridicule will suffice. That piece of shit pigtail would hold up for about 18 months at any crag people actually climb at, good thing it's at this wall of turds
16
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Weird how they last so long in Europe. Must be different on this side of the globe. Chop it! :-)
17
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Actually, it's the coarse "sandpaper" nature of the Corbin sandstone on the ropes and the propensity of American climbers to toprope directly through the anchor, something well known in the RRG if you had done even a minimal amount of research into the history and local development standards
18
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Chop it!
19
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Exactly, instead out of arrogance this newcomer felt the need to reinvent the wheel that has been completely fine for 30+ years 🙄
20
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Serious question. If this is the same gauge as a quick link and is as easy to remove/replace (maybe easier), why is it worse? Seeking to understand, but also...yes..chop it!
21
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Go and see for yourself what happens when you try to remove the pigtail once the bolt is glued into the wall... this isn't fucking rocket science, no need to reinvent something to solve a problem that didn't exist in the first place
22
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Is choosing a slightly different anchor type arrogance? Wow, touchy touchy. Were the first set of climb tech mussies arrogance? The first steel perma's? The first glue-ins? This arrogant piece of shit! Spending $8.71 to display his arrogance. An unsung arrogant prick! Chop it!
23
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Yep it's arrogant... and the stupid dog tag BS really drives that home
24
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
i'm fine with the ram horn. BUT CHOP THE DOG TAG. no need for this spam "i was here" graffiti.
25
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
I have tested and it is super easy to remove. But time will tell. Every struggle to get one of those commonly used plated quicklinks off after 5 or 10 years? Yup, also a challenge.
26
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Well it stays somewhat anonymous...and if one chooses not to spray the FA on the internet...it shares the route name. But yes, total display of arrogance just like everyone's development and spray. The climbing in the Red is awesome, and so are the people when we see each other in person, but this site is fun to read.
27
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Agree the dog tag is tacky as fuck and unnecessary but also hilarious, even if at the expense of the person who spent their own money on all that crap
28
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Certainly is unnecessary as is a lot of what we do for our little obsession of climbing rocks. Books, websites, $180 shoes. Hey, its literally a small piece of metal on a much larger piece of metal (the anchor) 60 feet of the ground. Hardly the most unsightly and tacky thing at the crag. Arrogant? And posting new routes with the name, grade and developer is not? I am genuinely perplexed at the difference.
29
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
This has Matt Jaggers written all of it. He is trying to gain acceptance by remaining anonymous. It isn't working. Everything this guy does is wrong in so many ways.
30
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
*all over it
31
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
This route is not a squeeze job or chossfest at a worldclass wall. It is a small contribution to a small warmup wall. It was meant to be a modest contribution not a bold statement. Sorry the tag is so offensive! Perhaps I will remove it. Not a Mjagg route!!!! Oh god, calling me arrogant was surprising, but damn...calling me Mjagg is just too painful. Shit, I may go chop this myself!!!
32
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
I have been putting up routes for 20 years (only a few in KY), but I don't post them online or generally broadcast them. The tag was meant only to share the name, etc with anyone who climbed it. But I see the perception of arrogance it seems to cause. So, perhaps I will avoid this in the Red as we are a sensitive group. Anyway, the feedback is interesting. I will go on with my day elsewhere. Hopefully someone will enjoy this route. Thanks again.
33
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Haha... it looks like a good route actually, just a bit pretentious with the dogtag and the wrong hardware for the area. Thanks for the addition otherwise though, looks fun!
34
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Looks like a nice anchor too. Very clean. It will last a long time. Thanks for your effort. Jesus what a bunch of snowflakes on this site anymore.
35
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Cheapest price I see on those dumb pigtail/ram's horn things is $17.97, and that's freaking wholesale! I think I'll stick with the standard thicker, cheaper, more redundant double 3/8" quicklinks, chain, Mussy/anchor hooks thanks...
36
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
https://team-tough.com/10mm-pig-tail-lower-off
37
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2020
Hm the higher price must be for 12mm I guess... listed as $31.50 MSRP on Excalibur's site!
38
One-Fall said on November 18th, 2020
Thank you for the route.
39
Cromper said on November 18th, 2020
Lee speaks the truth. Glad this wall is filling in.
40
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2020
So Lee Smith bolted this?
41
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2020
Holy shit, people are so whiny. Thanks for bolting, Everyone who complains about the anchors, dog tag, gfy.
42
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2020
Agree. I guess none of the whiners have been able to get to the anchor of any of KG's routes at the Arena and elsewhere.
43
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2020
Head and Shoulders at DriveBy has a KG tag too.
44
climb2core said on November 19th, 2020
Glad the route is there to keep the other piles at the Unlode company. If we get enough of them, people may actually visit this place and it might clean up. I have my doubts about the longevity of the ram horn style anchor for the Red. This will most likely be a low traffic route so it should be fine for the time being. Thanks for the work anon! Message me if you ever want subsidized SS hardware. Can be reached on FB, IG, or contacted through website www.rrrgfgi.com
45
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2020
What Lee said. Thank you for your route.
46
rjackson said on November 19th, 2020
Amazed at the amount of "anonymous" posts, and the amount of people that feel the guidebook is now the place to flame... what a wonderful face we present to the world. As for the anchors, when they wear out, replace 'em. Across the red there are a myriad of styles, so as long as the rock is good and they're equalized, then bravo. I had also thought about tagging anchors with ID, as it hurts nothing and if it is destined to be a forgotten pile then perhaps a future generation won't have to wonder.
47
One-Fall said on November 22nd, 2020
This is Lee. I have only bolted two routes, both of which are piles, and I became too selfish with my time to give back to the community in this way. Much love to everyone who still does give back to the community by giving us new routes to climb.
48
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2020
Well done anchor. Don't listen to the provincial nonsense.