COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Dura-Ace

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm


5a.
+0
0 votes

Road Rash 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Zach Wilson, Matthew Jaggers in 2020
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Huge iron jugs lead to a technical slab/vert crux on micro crimps, followed by thought provoking climbing on varied iron features to a slanted ledge. Finish up with a fun, but short lived juggy offwidth crack to the anchor.
Moves: Crimpy, Technical
Descent: Offset Anchor with Quick Links
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.11 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (6 votes)

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Submitted by:
Date: Dec 1st, 2020

Submitted by:
Date: Dec 1st, 2020

Comments

1
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Wtf are you doing Jaggers? For the love of fuck, stop with the retarded squeeze jobs. There's already an established line for the offwidth. What possesses you to do this brain dead shit?
2
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Bolting a crack in order to squeeze another one in between two well ends established routes. This shit is the lowest of the low. Dude should have his fucking drill taken away.
3
said on December 1st, 2020
Lol. Anons with their uninformed opinions at it again. This is the best line on this section of wall, imo, and should have been the first one put up. Really fun technical crux, and fun climbing on both sides of it. We cleaned this well, but small crumblies will probably still come off for a bit. Belayers should wear helmets for a while until this is fully cleaned up. Enjoy!
4
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Haha unwarrantedly arrogant as ever... or maybe even worse than before
5
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Jag buddy, despite what your mentally handicapped ego keeps telling you, squeezing in some bolts tightly between infinitely better and cleaner routes just to do some contrived and rightfully ignored movement on shitty, crumbly rock is not benefitting these crags at all. Your crusade to desecrate every crag you touch has to stop.
6
said on December 1st, 2020
Anon wastes of life who do nothing for anyone trying to tell me to stop being productive. K. Bolted 4 lines at Velo last week, one on Thanksgiving (youre welcome), and climbed 3 days, and sent two projects. Cant stop, won't stop. How about, uninformed opinions that get publicly aired within an hour of something getting published needs to stop? This route is not choss, is not squeezed, and the fact that this is your go-to, and only criticism of me just shows how witless you are. Stop wasting your breath, ill be bolting until the day you leave the Red, burn outs.
7
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
This is only somewhat squeezed; he has done FAR worse. This may actually be a good 2 star line similar to its neighbors. But dude: "This is the best line on this section of wall, imo" come on; your opinion of your own shitty little babies is highly skewed, warped and irrelevant. You lack even basic objectivity and humility. Clueless.
8
said on December 1st, 2020
Curious who's routes ive ever squeezed? No one's ever, and never will. Just keep moving the goal post until... "it's not his routes, it's just him". And yes, objectively, this is better than the other 3. Sorry for sharing my informed opinion, considering I've actually climbed them all. All are good and fun, but this is the most thoughtful, and challenging climbing on this wall. Waiting for your informed opinion, Anon.
9
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Share the Lain, is, objectively, the most squeeze job route in the RRG.
10
said on December 1st, 2020
Those are both my routes, and they are both amazing climbs. If you wanted me to spread the bolts out because of your ocd, then no one would ever climb them because their rope would get trashed with every fall. You climb on the left side of the bolts for Tourists, and you start climbing on the right side of the bolts for Share the Lain. Anyone criticizing those routes' bolt placements knows nothing of putting up a line with a good rope path that doesn't rub on the rock. Only a nagging pos would care that someone bolted two lines next to each other. Guess you've never seen the lines at Bob Marley, Stone Pipe and Beeper that are even closer, but no one gives a fuck, because only turds like you have enough time in their day to waste complaining about something that doesn't matter. Share the Lain uses one foot from Tourist as a hand for the final rest, then they merge again at the last bolt. I bolted both, with intention. If that's your best attack, then move on with your life, you got nothing.
11
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Just failing to understand why someone would walk by and think, "ya know, even though there's a perfectly fine trad route here with a nice 5.8 to the left, I think I'll bolt the bottom section of said trad route, yet use shittier ignored rock, and steal its offwidth for the finish." Such a sad waste of time and bolts for a route only a handful of people in the history of ever will climb, let alone finish after they discover just how poor and dumb it is mid-climb.
12
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Da turd choppah will be out to investigate such infractions in basic ethics.
13
said on December 1st, 2020
Again with your uninformed speculations. Lanterne Rogue is less than half the distance to the start of Eddie, and Road Rash never gets close. Ill bring my drill and 100+ bolts out to hand over to anyone who climbs Eddie Merckx without gear, expecting to clip bolts on Road Rash. Id love to see you free solo that 5.6 and then shit yourself because you have no gear. Clip all the Road Rash bolts from the crack, and ill be happy to give you my setup. In case you forgot, Joe Biden is about to be president, people are getting brutalized and murdered by cops daily, America is in 7 active wars, theres a global pandemic, most people didn't see their loved ones on Thanksgiving because of Covid, including me, our government sold us out again and gave all our money away to rich fucks and fucked everyone else over in the process with the 2020 stimulus, people are going hungry, about to lose their homes, and kids can't see their friends and are locked away in their homes suffering because the world is falling apart. You all are fucking pathetic. Do your research before complaining about something you know nothing about, you lazy fucks!
14
said on December 1st, 2020
I even posted pics so your hungover ass didn't have to walk up there to see it.
15
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Damn Jaggiepanties is still a loud, dumb asshole... guess it's just who he is at this point
16
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Lol oh silly Jag, deflecting from the subject at hand, as per usual. You make this far too easy big guy. Just accept that you'll only ever be known for bolting lazy, contrived, shitpile squeeze jobs when you could actually make a decent name for yourself scouting out untouched hidden gems. But wait, that requires ambition...my bad
17
climbhigh said on December 1st, 2020
not a hard crack, be a good way to get a free drill and 100 bolts for a solo. when we originally bolted all those and did the trad lines, we generally tried to keep spacing that was acceptable best i can remember. can't comment on if the new lines are squeeze jobs or not, been many moons and safety breaks since ive been to the red. but, there is a ton of rock out there, no need to squeeze routes in, if they are squeezed.
18
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
hey btw you're supposed to climb the rocks.. not spend all day anonymously commenting on them on a virtual website.. shut the fuck up already.
19
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Jaggy boy is that kid in high school who never got bullied but probably should have. Guess if you don't squash it when they're young they turn into arrogant fuckwits that bolt squeeze jobs and threaten people on the internet
20
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2020
Looks like the "offwidth" referred to in the description is a different one on the left, not the top of the Eddie OW
21
climb2core said on December 1st, 2020
Line seems fine. Thx for the addition. We need more 10's for Lee to chase.
22
said on December 1st, 2020
Youre welcome. And thanks man. Thats funny you say that. Opened one up that was right between 10d and 11a and settled on 10d just for Lee! Got three new 10's coming his way. Really fun stuff.
23
Jackiefreesh said on December 2nd, 2020
You know what the fuck? I like this route. Its not a squeeze. I was ready to bolt this one myself but I'm happy that Matt did. You know what else? I'm glad I have a name, Jac or Dr. Freesh or you can call me anything you want but at least my name aint Anonymous because that is a fuckin' Annoying name. Now I do not know Matt personally and he may be a little thin skinned when it comes to responding to trolls, but get over your annoying anonymous self and just go fucking climb. If 5.10b is too far beneath you that's great, cause you won't ever dirty the dozens of five tens and below that I've bolted with your jizzy fingers. Whoa, I've said way too much, time to listen to some ole banjo music.
24
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2020
Got kinda deliverance there at the end... Agree, based on pics, new climb doesn’t seem too squeezed.
25
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2020
Lol boohoo
26
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2020
I hear banjos...