COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Route 49

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

Horny Bitch


5a.
+0
0 votes

Plenty of Sun 5.9 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Daniel Wilkes, Haley Marshall, Vanessa Ramos in 2021
Length: 130ft
Gear: Double rack, one 5 and one 6 useful (report bad anchors)

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Starts the same as Route 52 and climbs the wide crack up to a small ledge. (Highly recommend a 5 and 6 for the first pitch.) From here, set an anchor and belay up. (The original Route 52 follows the big crack veering left and traversing around onto the ledge with Cussin Crack.)
For Plenty of Sun, continue up the big crack for 15 feet, then do a couple face moves up and right to gain a seam. Make a couple horizontal placements and the seam turns into a major dihedral that goes to the top of the main cliff. There is one wide section where a 5 or 6 is helpful. At the end of the dihedral, make a face move to the right, grab the top of the cliff and make an airy mantle top out.
Pitch 1: 50 feet: Hands to offwidth to belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2: 80 feet: Continue up the wide crack, then move right to a seam that turns into a big dihedral, take the dihedral to its end, and top out the cliff.
Descend by rappelling from tree. One 70 meter rope gets you back to the ground.
Surprisingly good route, clean rock, good protection the whole way, and it tops out the main big cliff at a moderate grade! Plus a great view!
Moves: Stemming, hands, a bit of wide
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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5 stars (2 votes)
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5.9 (1 votes)

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Submitted by: BubbyBoi
Date: Nov 19th, 2021

Submitted by: BubbyBoi
Date: Nov 19th, 2021

Submitted by: wilkes86
Date: Feb 22nd, 2021

Submitted by: wilkes86
Date: Feb 22nd, 2021

Submitted by: wilkes86
Date: Feb 22nd, 2021

Comments

1
KhaoticKlimber said on February 22nd, 2021
This sounds rad! If not freed before, would be hard to believe. Sounds like an obvious line
2
Anonymous said on February 22nd, 2021
Sun, I like sun. Plenty of sun is even better. I like rock climbing. We are so lucky to have the RRG.
3
Anonymous said on February 24th, 2021
That new pic does make this look appealing.
4
strawmyers said on February 25th, 2021
Cool that people are still finding "new" lines at such a classic wall. Will have to give it a go next time I'm at Fortress.
5
Anonymous said on February 28th, 2021
maybe we'll never know if freed before, but who cares. looks great. thank you for taking the time to put it online.
6
caribe said on March 3rd, 2021
Very nice Danimal! I'm a fan! Art
7
BubbyBoi said on May 2nd, 2021
Big shoutout to the anchor fairy! Pleasantly surprised to find fresh chain anchors at the top of both pitches. Without a doubt, the new best kept secret at Fortress. I can imagine the intimidating offwidth first pitch (Route 52) has turned many away over the years, making it a forgotten testpiece for budding leaders. It is easily the big business. The second pitch is just as fun as Party Time with enough challenge to keep it interesting. Sweet liebacking and an exciting top out. Go for the heel hook! Managed to plug a decent .2 and .3 in the odd fingercrack just before the top out. Nuts would be bomb here but I didn't bring any. Save a .5 for a horizontal before committing to the mantle. Could be done as one pitch with a 70m, but wouldn't recommend unless you want multiple 5's and 6's weighing you down. Watch out for a couple hollow-sounding flakes and a bit of sand. Say hi to the lizards!