In the Light - Military Wall :: Red River Gorge Online Guide

As you near the cliff from the approach trail, a buttress will appear to the right. Three routes can be found on the short, pocketed, southwestern face of the buttress. This is the first of the three.

Chains are hard to clip if you're short.

Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.54 stars (104 votes)

Grade Consensus
5.10c (83 votes)

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Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Apr 12th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

17 comments {add your own comments}

Horatio Felacio said on January 22nd, 2003

I get boners every time i imagine climbing such a wonderful route.

Anonymous said on March 3rd, 2003

Very cool route... Gripping finish moves. I'd say this is as much of a must do route as Sunshine and Moonbeam.

RTimm said on April 29th, 2003

I agree, this climb is wonderful, except the end. I had to clip the anchors from a lop-sided softball looking hold a foot to the right of the anchors.

nattyshred said on May 9th, 2003

I was there the day it got bolted and we all marathon climbed it to get alot of rock that was chipping off. I thought the route was okay. Sounds like it is in good shape now. Havent been to military in years

SikMonkey said on May 14th, 2003

I love this route. It's definitely another Terry Kindred classic!

sigs2001 said on October 14th, 2003

did somebody say undercling??? that and sidepulls....proper foot technique will make the finishing move a piece of cake..... (as I learned after taking a wipper off the top!)

dj_ax said on June 4th, 2004

I like this route a lot! Nicely sustained with a super cool finishing sequence. Highly recommended.

rhunt said on June 24th, 2004

"I get boners"...you have more than one? fun route..much needed!

Meadows said on March 7th, 2005

I love this route and got a nice whipper going to the anchors. What looks good isn't good. ;-)

kek-san said on February 17th, 2006

Sustained and pumpy. Last clip is interesting. Get a good rest below the previous bolt and charge it. Beautiful route.

merrick said on June 2nd, 2006

if you are short keep going and find the jugs above the anchors.

Josephine said on August 19th, 2007

this route was lotsa fun. especially nice on crowded days since it seems to see a lot less traffic.

Josephine said on August 19th, 2007

i take back the less traffic comment - that was meant for "another doug reed route" oops. this one gets plenty of traffic ;-)

Don McGlone said on November 5th, 2007

Fun moves and a cool finish.

keegan540 said on June 20th, 2008

excellent route with a lot of sidepulls

Brentucky said on July 20th, 2008

very nice line. the end sure looked scary from the ground, but i found it to be surprisingly easier than it looked. i thought there was a pretty good anchor clipping hold down below too, but i often suck and use bad clipping technique so i was probably pulling too hard or something.

Dman said on January 10th, 2009

cool ass route

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

In the Light 5.10c (Sport) ***

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