The Corner

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Tower Rock

No Brain, No Pain


25.
+1
1 votes

Tower of Power 5.10c R (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Larry Day, Ed Pearsall in 1979
Length: 155ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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"Larry Day is still alive also! Apologies in advance for the shameless promotion of my own route, but Tower of Power has a somewhat significant roof. In fact it is pretty cool, not your typical RRG type roof but more of a Gunks kind of problem. Geezer, it really shouldnt be too hard to spot. Directly above the crack that forms the first pitch you will see a flake that is somewhat detached from the roof above. Haul your ass up on to that flake and sit astride it in a kind of mambo? stance. You know what I mean, leaning way back, cause the roof will be right in your face. Reach way out to the lip and you will find a great hold, and best of all a bomber tricam (1.5 or maybe a 2) placement in a vertical crack (slotted, not cammed). Screw up your courage, pull the roof, and KEEP YOUR %#^ TOGETHER because its kinda run out on 5.10 face above. Its way exhilarating, and not nearly so hard as Insanity Ceiling. Together with the stupendous first pitch it is truly one of the best old school climbs in the gorge. I am really not trying to sandbag anyone. The first pitch starts out somewhat ugly and strange, then becomes beautiful beyond belief. Then there is the matter of the runout above the roof. Definitely a place where only the big boys and girls should play. One of my favorite climbs anywhere." -Larry Day, 2001 Taken from a thread on the now defunct www.climbkentucky.com
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
classic (1) adventerous (1) scary (1) technical (1) exposed (1) steep (1)
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5 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (2 votes)

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Submitted by: LK Day
Date: Jun 13th, 2012

Submitted by: LK Day
Date: Feb 19th, 2012

Submitted by: LK Day
Date: Jan 3rd, 2011

Submitted by: LK Day
Date: Jan 3rd, 2011

Submitted by: Yasmeen
Date: Jun 11th, 2010

Comments

1
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
Okay all you crazies, don't be bashful, if you've done it spray! 'Cause it was so much fun I done it twice.
2
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
Pitch one, aka The Corner is 110 ft. Pitch two is just 45 scary ft.
3
RRO said on September 6th, 2006
I found some old LD posts that Chris sent me and found two stories on this route. Anyone on here done it ? Sounds exciting to say the least.
4
512OW said on October 18th, 2006
Ok... several things.... the upper face isn't runout at all. Take a couple hand or fist sized pieces, and they'll slot nicely into horizontals. In fact, its almost sewn up. The bottom half of the last pitch, though, is scary. Mostly because its crumbling. Alot. I pulled off tons of rock from both under the flake you sit on, and above the flake you sit on. Thank god the flake is good (I think). Cool moves, though they didn't seem to be anything very special. If you want to climb some scary old school bad rock, this is the route....
5
512OW said on October 24th, 2006
Ok....that came out totally wrong. The moves actually are really cool... sitting on the flake and moving out and over the roof is pretty unique. I imagine if it were at your limit, or you were on lead (cuz I'm a pus...), the 3 or 4 moves around the lip and just above it would be pretty damned intense. The rock on the upper face is solid....
6
SCIN said on October 24th, 2006
Dude, does Larry have you hostage or something?
7
RRO said on October 24th, 2006
Kris is trying to make up to the trad gods.
8
Day said on November 29th, 2006
OK Kris, You definately get points for attempting to lead this thing, especially when all I was asking for was for someone to top rope it. Still, it was lead twice, by yours truly, 27 years ago, no sticky rubber, no chalk, on '70s gear, and nobody's done it since. Pretty cool for the dark ages, huh? As for the loose stuff, don't pull on it, and it won't come off.
9
L K Day said on March 29th, 2007
Speeking of something that came out totally wrong, sheesh!
10
L K Day said on March 29th, 2007
Crap! I Can't spell either.
11
LK Day said on February 19th, 2012
I'm in white painter pants for a repeat of the route in about '81 or '82. The photo is by Frank Becker.
12
LK Day said on February 19th, 2012
An addendum to comment 8. I'm clearly carrying a chalk bag on the second ascent. Perhaps the first trip scared me enough that I decided seek the solace of the little bag of courage the second time around.
13
caribe said on June 11th, 2012
This thing was awesome. I seconded the route. I'd like to put some work into it to clean it up. Truly an exceptional piece of nature and epic experience.
14
pigsteak said on June 11th, 2012
caribe likes it...that's enuf for me to keep clipping bolts right there...
15
kman154 said on August 23rd, 2015
This is one of the best routes I have been on in a while. I led the first pitch while caribe styled the prow. It was awesome.
16
dustonian said on August 23rd, 2015
Get a room fellas
17
LK Day said on August 23rd, 2015
Your turn dustonian. Go climb that thing!
18
nitrousstone said on November 13th, 2017
How hard is this route compared to others of it's grade?
19
Wolf said on November 16th, 2017
It’s pretty accurate for the grade. Harder than most 10c sport routes of the last twenty years, but pretty comparable to most gear routes of its era. Don’t take the 5.9 offwidth first pitch for granted.