COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Laying Pipe Under the Bridge

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

The Friend Zone

0 votes

Good Wood Solid Spank 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Matthew Jaggers, Tyler Phillips, Zach Wilson in 2021
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Pull through the technical and challenging boulder problem to find fun, reachy slab climbing on funky, cool holds. After pulling up over the ledge, find a few more feet of steeper climbing on golden rock to the anchor.
Moves: Technical, Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

2 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11+ (2 votes)

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Submitted by: CRZYFST
Date: Oct 26th, 2021


said on September 28th, 2021
Tough one to grade, as it's fully based on the boulder problem start. 11b/c from the 3 person concensus. Also, you can now TR the potential unbolted gnarly slab line to the left, so long as you mind your rope to keep from hitting the lip of the ledge if you come off. Someone should bolt that before I get back around to it!
CRZYFST said on October 27th, 2021
wow I would really like to know how to do this start if you are shorter. I can see if taller using the side/undercling being able to go big. But to start feet are under the roof a little, so even using a decent hold hard to stand up. I ended up pulling the rope to gain the face, then the middle part wasn't bad. Fun making big reaches and then using them as underclings. Mantles are cool but I feel this should have just stopped right below it. It is all mosy on top and the last couple bolts the holds are sharp and brittle. This puts some pretty good rope drag over the lip. Does have a nice view at the top. Bolt the arette to the right, that looks like it could be cool haha.
said on October 27th, 2021
Cant be any harder than a mid-11. Sounds like you just need to work out the beta. I thought it was 12d before the beta was found.
vertical1 said on October 27th, 2021
Wow, what a useful last comment! Glad I didn't ask how do short beta for Dogleg since it doesn't feel like 12a. I mean, even one of my solid 5.14 climber friends didn't do it, but " can't be harder than 12a" by the logic of the previous idiot. Not often, but occasionally height DOES make a difference. Guess that climber needed to just "work out the beta. "
vertical1 said on October 27th, 2021
CRZYFST, it's good to know someone who has not, nor ever will climb 12d, thought that it was that grade before they "worked out the beta". Your tick list shows you are more than willing to get on reachy routes.
said on October 27th, 2021
I love uninformed goons that contribute nothing to world adding their nonsense to route comments. The beginning has nothing to do with height, it's just tricky, odd beta.
said on October 27th, 2021
Just curious when it became ok to grade routes before the sprayer sent the route? And when did comparing a route to another route become a thing when you haven't even been on one of them? Comparing this route to Dogleg is laughable. If youre 4'1", this route will be extra hard! Toddlers BEWARE, .14+. Again... 3 people thought it was 11b/c, who actually did the moves. I could spray you down, but then how would you ever get better at climbing?
griff123 said on October 27th, 2021
Pretty embarrassing that your solid 5.14 climber friend could do dogleg. Its a pretty low-end 12a PM if you want some beta to give him.
vertical1 said on October 27th, 2021
griff123, interesting you want to give "him" beta. She sent southern smoke, God's own stone, Lucifer, Cherry Red, and came so close on Pure Imagination. Also, I am pretty sure Mike Doyle called Dogleg 13b, for his height. Yes, I know taller climbers that call it 11d.
griff123 said on October 28th, 2021
I’m glad “she” lets you live vicariously through her tick list.
vertical1 said on October 28th, 2021
Yeah, Solveig Korherr and Jon Shen were fun to climb with a ton in 2019. I'm sure she'll never be as good as you.