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Anti-Gravity Acrobatics

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Tower Rock

 Bleak Future

33.
+1
1 votes

Dog Days 5.8+ (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Rich Gottlieb, Gene Hancock in 1976
Length: 75ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the crack 25 feet right of Anti-gravity Acrobatics. Climb the crack then step right when if fizzles out. Continue up the face to a ledge then up a groove to the lower main ledge of Tower.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.65 stars (26 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (17 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 11th, 2020

Comments

12 comments {add your own comments}
1
ray said on September 7th, 2003
Cool sporty crux.
2
ynot said on March 3rd, 2004
I worked this route harder than any other 8.I whipped, I hung,I aided it and I only sent it through stuborn determination.The crux is just that good.
3
Sco Bro said on April 3rd, 2006
Cool climb, the description kind of messed with our mind. We thought we need to traverse up and right to some anchors, nope. Just climb, more or less, straight up and there's old webbing on a good tree. The top out to the tree adds a nice degree of adventure.
4
Anonymous said on May 4th, 2008
Cool climb! We could not find the fixed anchors, but topped it out to the tree. About 90 feet to the anchor tree. Be mindful of rope drag.
5
vooshniva said on April 19th, 2009
great route but i could not find the anchors so i continued to the top dirt ramp at the top is interesting
6
dustonian said on September 20th, 2010
Classy route!! Loved it.
7
gripster said on October 21st, 2010
topping out was an adventure indeed! I had a hard time getting good gear at the top (pumped) and what gear i got caused some of the most heinous rope drag i have ever experienced!
8
Willy said on March 15th, 2013
Anchor is currently a few slings around a sketchy horn at the top. There is a tree further up but it was a muddy mess to get up there
9
rjackson said on June 30th, 2013
What a classic! Spot on grade. Probably the most overlooked route at Tower, overshadowed by its neighbors Africa and Arachnid. I used the slings on the horn after looking at the muddy grovel to the tree and the pile of tat on it. Though the horn is good I would I rate the pucker factor of rapping off it about the same as clawing your way to the tree. This would be 5 star with anchors...
10
DrRockso said on May 26th, 2015
As rjackson said this climb would really benefit from anchors on the face to avoid the permadirty top out.
11
gooch said on April 14th, 2019
Excellent climbing. Good gear the whole way. Has anchors now
12
KhaoticKlimber said on May 21st, 2019
Super fun line! Excellent hand jam opportunities, perfect plugging stances, and an exciting overhung finish with a sweet finger jam at the top. Don't miss out on this one!