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The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall


0 votes

Dicey at Best 5.8+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Dante Leonardi, Ken Staufer in 1979
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for an obvious, wide dihedral beginning on a ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Continue up the crack system to a roof, then traverse right along a ledge. Scramble up to a tree.
Bring some #4 Camalots.
Moves: Wide Crack or Offwidth
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.46 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (26 votes)

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Submitted by: Sloth
Date: Jan 9th, 2020

Submitted by: Sloth
Date: Jan 9th, 2020

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Dec 15th, 2011

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 27th, 2008

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 26th, 2008

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 26th, 2008


J-Rock said on June 25th, 2004
Pumpy! Eh?
haas said on May 19th, 2006
If you only do the first pitch (the classic one), there are bolted anchors and you can get down with a single rope.
climbhigh said on October 5th, 2006
if that aint old school 8+ i dont know what is. great route
chh said on October 23rd, 2006
Stout for 8+
L K Day said on February 15th, 2007
The first pitch is the hard one, but I thought the climbing was excellent all the way to the top. Do it.
Myke Dronez said on September 28th, 2008
sorry Day, the second pitch just ain't worth the trouble unless you're a choss hunter- hit the tang for the top out. good stuff down low.
kman154 said on July 27th, 2009
Just climbed the first pictch, only had one rope. Had to take a few times. This was good climbing.
dustonian said on February 14th, 2011
great Yosemite primer... super clean and mostly featureless
caribe said on June 5th, 2011
I think movement on this route is more technical than pumpy. I loved it. spoiler: gear beta BD # 3 down low but she eats 4's take four. You can place a #5 at the top of the crack where it widens out.
Sco Bro said on June 5th, 2011
Many moons ago this route terrified me and seemed impossible. Now, with a few more years of trad experience, I can say that this route still terrifies me and is a burly beast.
Jeff said on December 11th, 2011
Felt great in Dec. Can't imagine climbing it on a hot, humid summer day.
rjackson said on December 11th, 2011
If you didn't like this one you should sell your rack... A spectacular old school 8+ that is perfect for a sunny day with low temps.
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2012
Good to see all the comments--Dante and I did the first ascent on this climb in 1979--it was a hot summer day. I remember it like it was yesterday!
kman154 said on January 10th, 2016
Got this route clean today. There is absolutely no reason a person should not do the second pitch. There is a serious large loose boulder that looks like a great foot, but it can be avoided.
JR said on January 13th, 2016
lol !!! love your comment Kman.
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2019
Awesome route, respect the +, very physical first pitch. Did the 2nd pitch and highly disagree with the above comment. The large boulder is very loose and not worth the consequences of accidently not knowing which one it is, they all look loose. Lots of chose above the loose boulder. Again if you stand on the block it moves a lot and is right above your belayer. Not worth the risk. Was an awesome route even with the added excitement but I will stick to the first pitch.
Sloth said on January 9th, 2020
5.8+++ and then some. 🤪