The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

Stinger


1.
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Dicey at Best 5.8+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Dante Leonardi, Ken Staufer in 1979
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for an obvious, wide dihedral beginning on a ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Continue up the crack system to a roof, then traverse right along a ledge. Scramble up to a tree.
Bring some #4 Camalots.
Moves: Wide Crack or Offwidth
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4.44 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (24 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Dec 14th, 2011

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 27th, 2008

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 26th, 2008

Submitted by: pkananen
Date: Sep 26th, 2008

Comments

1
J-Rock said on June 24th, 2004
Pumpy! Eh?
2
haas said on May 19th, 2006
If you only do the first pitch (the classic one), there are bolted anchors and you can get down with a single rope.
3
climbhigh said on October 4th, 2006
if that aint old school 8+ i dont know what is. great route
4
chh said on October 23rd, 2006
Stout for 8+
5
L K Day said on February 15th, 2007
The first pitch is the hard one, but I thought the climbing was excellent all the way to the top. Do it.
6
Myke Dronez said on September 28th, 2008
sorry Day, the second pitch just ain't worth the trouble unless you're a choss hunter- hit the tang for the top out. good stuff down low.
7
kman154 said on July 27th, 2009
Just climbed the first pictch, only had one rope. Had to take a few times. This was good climbing.
8
dustonian said on February 14th, 2011
great Yosemite primer... super clean and mostly featureless
9
caribe said on June 4th, 2011
I think movement on this route is more technical than pumpy. I loved it. spoiler: gear beta BD # 3 down low but she eats 4's take four. You can place a #5 at the top of the crack where it widens out.
10
Sco Bro said on June 5th, 2011
Many moons ago this route terrified me and seemed impossible. Now, with a few more years of trad experience, I can say that this route still terrifies me and is a burly beast.
11
Jeff said on December 10th, 2011
Felt great in Dec. Can't imagine climbing it on a hot, humid summer day.
12
rjackson said on December 11th, 2011
If you didn't like this one you should sell your rack... A spectacular old school 8+ that is perfect for a sunny day with low temps.
13
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2012
Good to see all the comments--Dante and I did the first ascent on this climb in 1979--it was a hot summer day. I remember it like it was yesterday!
14
kman154 said on January 10th, 2016
Got this route clean today. There is absolutely no reason a person should not do the second pitch. There is a serious large loose boulder that looks like a great foot, but it can be avoided.
15
JR said on January 12th, 2016
lol !!! love your comment Kman.