Stratocaster

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

DAB Chimney


4.
+2
2 votes

Good Tang 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Larry Day, Frank Becker in 1974
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk about 250 feet right of Stratocaster, past a black-topped boulder and a small stream. Look for an acute dihedral with a couple of overhangs. The route does not look like it could only be 5.7 from the ground. Climb up to the overhangs to a large belay ledge on the right and belay. Tackle the first overhang and bail out left or continue up through the second overhang to a large ledge. The third pitch climbs the chimney to the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
steep (1) exposed (1) long (1) classic (1) fun (1) scary (1) stout (1) adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.24 stars (29 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (22 votes)

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Comments

1
Don McGlone said on January 17th, 2003
I think I've only done the first two pitches.
2
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
Fun climbing down low, but the fierce finish and spectacular top out is what this RRG classic is all about.
3
TimKambitsch said on May 27th, 2003
Okay, so I only completed the first pitch when I wimped out trying that first roof. BTW, I left a black Metolious cam on the ledge.
4
hamsco said on June 1st, 2004
This is the hardest 5.7 in the Red!!! Another Larry Day Classic.
5
ynot said on October 18th, 2004
That roof is so cool! Not so easy to unlock,but it's still 5.7
6
steeever said on April 20th, 2005
The final pitch is a gem! It has just enough subtle features on the face and in the crack to keep it from being an offwidth thrash top-to-bottom, the rock is bullet, the pro is adequate, and the top out beats just about everything else I've experienced at the Red.
7
Danny said on September 19th, 2005
This is my favorite 5.7 in the red.
8
climbhigh said on October 5th, 2006
the first pitch is ok but the second and third pitch are great ! it definitly does not look 5.7 from the ground or pulling the roof but its not bad once you commit to it.
9
ewaaser said on October 5th, 2006
Second and third pitches are tough for a 5.7. Take some big cams for the offwidth third pitch. Incredible view from the top!!
10
anticlmber said on March 23rd, 2007
Great fun!! This climb is what i've been missing in climbing. Get on it NOW!! Cheers to you Mr. Day and Mr. Becker.
11
Peng said on April 6th, 2008
First pitch: good warm up, great gear placements to get the confidence going for the start of the second pitch overhang pull (just tell yourself that this is a 5.7 and so, have faith that it's all there, don't want to spoil your fun of discovering for yourself the key to unlock this sequence; you won't fall and if you did, it's as clean as they come). Third pitch is good practice ground for offwidths, again, it's all there. Adequate protection on the 3rd pitch if you have a few No 6 and No 5 C4s (the more the safer). Otherwise, well, your call. BTW we climbed this after heavy showers and the route was a bit of a waterfall; point being, this can be done when super-wet.
12
kman154 said on July 27th, 2009
Fun climbing, not really a 5.7 on the first pitch but it gets better for the second.
13
possum2082 said on July 31st, 2009
1st pitch 5.5. 2nd pitch 5.8. 1st overhang has a great hold in the crack. don't miss the left knee bar after pulling the 2nd roof. there are good bolts with rap rings after 2nd pitch. you'll get down with a 60m rope with 15 ft. to spare.
14
Cleveland said on August 17th, 2009
I think the first pitch is way harder than 5.5. I think 5.7 or 5.8- for the first pitch. After that fun exposed climbing until the end.
15
CLIMBTRAD said on March 28th, 2010
wow!! thought i was going to puke or poop. A must do route!!
16
nychef77 said on October 10th, 2011
Greatest choss wrestle I've done.
17
LK Day said on May 24th, 2012
Imagine how exciting the final pitch was back in the day. When we did the FA I'm sure I'd never climbed anything that was rated harder than 5.7 or 5.8 and we protected the last pitch with a big hex and one or two wobbly Chouinard tube chocks. Like they say, "it's all there".
18
DirtMcGirt said on July 6th, 2015
Awesome route, Larry! Did this is in super humid conditions on the 4th of July. 3rd pitch is outstanding.
19
taurusclimber said on September 14th, 2015
Climbed this today. Beautiful route. 2nd and 3rd pitch are marvelous.
20
DrRockso said on August 26th, 2016
Combined the first two 'pitches' no problem with a little care to prevent rope drag. Great topout!
21
taurusclimber said on August 21st, 2018
Left fresh dark green webbing on this, 8/19/18