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DAB Chimney

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

Poon Tang

0 votes

The Spider Squat 5.7 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins in 1979
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the left-facing dihedral around the corner and to the left of Dicey at Best. Climb the dihedral to a ledge under an overhang. Move up and left and traverse the face around the corner, heading toward a tree. Climb the right side of a roof through an overhanging dihedral, stop at the ledge and belay. Finish on the short face to the summit.
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

2.33 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (4 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


ynot said on January 24th, 2003
forget the second pitch
Danny said on September 19th, 2005
Route finding on this is difficult. Once you get to the first large tree you have to traverse left about 40-50 feet and go up to another tree. Then there are a few cracks that go up. I took the one on the left. It was technical and interesting but probably still around 5.7-5.8. You can continue to the top on the face without rope drag so it can be done in two pitches. However, you might want to set a belay at the first tree before the traverse to reduce rope drag. There is an awsome overhanging offwidth that is the natural line of this route that would be a nice FA.
climbhigh said on October 5th, 2006
route finding is def an issue on this route. we topped out but it was not on the original route. we traversed left on ok holds and decent gear from the 1st pitch to a tree and then butt traversed a ledge to the right and finished in a short offwidth to the top. there are many, many better 7s in the red but if you want something different with a little adventure this route is ok.
ewaaser said on October 5th, 2006
I'm still not sure what the actual route is on this thing. We wandered about and wound up going the same way climbhigh did. A definite adventure, but wouldn't really recommend it. There's much better routes at Lower Small.
possum2082 said on March 31st, 2009
fun fist jams. skip the second pitch.
nychef77 said on October 10th, 2011
First pitch only. . . Someone should do the overhanging roof after the first pitch. Looks way crazy.
discoweasel said on July 23rd, 2014
Never did find that second pitch... But the first pitch crosses a good sized ledge that is completely covered in poison ivy. Hard to pass without getting exposed. I recommend just skipping this route (although the first part of the 1st pitch has fun climbing), but if you insist, wear pants & long sleeves!
dustonian said on July 24th, 2014
looks like Poon Tang is the way to go up there, think it avoids the PI too