Pogue's Path

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

Caterpillar Crack

0 votes

Double Caves Crack 5.3 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bill Hurley, Jim Hanners in 1975
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends a wide crack in a dihedral about 100 feet left of Spider Squat and a few feet left of a short crack leading to a ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge and move through an opening to a rockhouse. Chimney up the crack to a belay ledge and continue to the top.
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.22 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (8 votes)

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Anonymous said on April 4th, 2003
One of my favorite climbs of it's grade - great for introducing new ppl to the world of trad!!! Dave ([email protected])
Anonymous said on March 10th, 2006
Love this climb, did it on one of my first trips to kentucky and still do it at least once a year. Travis ([email protected])
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2006
anyone know what that roof traverse is above double caves? I'm guessing 5.7-8
dirtdog said on April 22nd, 2008
before going to the top via pogue's path, we went around that last little ledge to the left and through some rhodo's. Found a little 15 foot section to climb: big blocks for feet and you pull up and around a little baby overhand and into a dirty low angle dihedral. takes you to the same topout spot.
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2009
I thought the route was certainly beginner for the first crack and then up until the rock cave. I thought that the finish was a bit more difficult than a 5.3 but definately doable and fun
possum2082 said on July 1st, 2011
let me preface this with the fact that i haven't been climbing in 2 months. i got up and into the cave no problem. i peeked out and saw a slightly overhanging hand/finger crack. did it. 5.7, but i'm a wimp.