Caterpillar Crack

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

Elevator Out Of Service


10.
+0
0 votes

Blue Biner 5.9 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins in 1979
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the twin cracks about 50 feet left of Caterpillar Crack. Climb the twin cracks to an overhang, move left at the overhang and pull to a ledge. Belay from the ledge then climb the double overhangs and face to the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.14 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (18 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Dec 15th, 2011

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Don McGlone said on January 17th, 2003
Jan 1997 - Cleaned first pitch, led second pitch. Second pitch had fixed anchors.
2
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2003
A single 60m rope will get you down from the bolts at the top.
3
Ascentionist said on October 20th, 2005
Hey! That's me in the pic. I led the first pitch, but we bailed. I want to get back to do this route. It was very a very cool first pitch.
4
ynot said on December 29th, 2008
Bolts at the top are old as dirt. A classic like this deserves some love
5
dustonian said on February 14th, 2011
highly classic 1st pitch
6
taurusclimber said on October 26th, 2015
Bolts at the top are still old as dirt. Rusted to hell. Cool climb though. If Dicey at Best is 5.8+, this thing is 5.6.
7
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2015
Second pitch bolts are ancient and scarey. Very rusted old shut and bolt. Doesn't exactly make you feel all warm and fuzzy. Second pitch is really forgettable anyway, imo.
8
caribe said on January 10th, 2016
There are two sets of anchors and a belay station on this route. The first set of anchors are new but superfluous because there's a much more comfortable belay situation up further on the ledge. The next set of anchors directly above the ledge are rusted and looking pretty sketchy. In any case if these mark the end of the route there is no reason to do the route in two pitches. If you are aware of the midpoint in your 60 meter rope you can make it to the bottom with a single wrap. 70 meter rope will do so very easily. The guidebook data indicates that one should climb the double overhangs to the very top bearing to the left. However the protection for that portion of the route is not evident.
9
Anonymous said on January 10th, 2016
so basically you didnt do the route? you bailed halfway? as long as you don't add it to your ticklist, all's good...hopefully you can get the gumption to send it in the style of the FA someday....
10
DrRockso said on August 26th, 2016
Who left their panties at the bottom of the first pitch?
11
MikeWilkinson said on December 2nd, 2017
Great climb. Good gear, fun moves. Second pitch straight up through roof is short but fun.