The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Middle Small Wall

Which Way Is Up

1 votes

The Quest 5.10c (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Larry Day, Ed Pearsall in 1979
Length: 220ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Start in the left of the two cracks mentioned in the approach and climb through technical and thin cracks to a ledge with some loose rock directly beneath a roof. Pull through the roof and continue to a belay ledge on the right. The second pitch follows the thin hands crack in the overhanging dihedral to a hanging belay directly beneath a large roof. Be careful of setting gear in what looks like a solid crack in the roof but upon closer inspection may eventually be a large loose block. Traverse out the roof and pull into the short offwidth to the top.
FA done with some aid on the fourth pitch. FFA: Tom Souders, Bob Hayes, 1984. Be sure to bring at least 2 60m ropes for the descent.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.5 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (14 votes)

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Submitted by: JAmundsen
Date: Feb 26th, 2014

Submitted by: kman154
Date: May 2nd, 2013


Larry Day said on January 10th, 2003
First Ascent: Day & Piersall, FFA: Souders & Hays
Jack said on January 14th, 2003
Sorry about the FA mixup. I think it is corrected now (using the information from John's guide).
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
Ed and I freed it all but for one slimy move in the algae coated final slot. Guess we could have gone back, but we both had bigger fish to fry.
tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
I went with "G.I. Jeff" (Jeff Dul) to climb this one- I lead it all, I think. it was funny to see a 5.12 sport climber on this. He was a good sport about it, but later said "that had NOHTING to do with climbing."
L K Day said on November 19th, 2004
That's hilarious!, 'ol Jeff sure has a great sense of humor. Glad you showed him such a good time!
tonybubb said on June 13th, 2005
His eventual response to my repeated apollagies was "I bought the ticket, so I took the ride." Yes, Jeff has a good sense of humor.
climbhigh said on April 18th, 2007
110% f-ing amazing !!! you dont get this type of climbing at the red very often. variety of moves, exposed, long pitches and committing. one of the best overall experiences in the red. if adventure trad in the red is your game this is your route, go get on it !!!!!!!!!
pkananen said on May 11th, 2010
The first part of the first pitch is extremely dirty. I would recommend wearing a helmet, especially seconding, as there is substantial loose and flowing rock during the first pitch. Cleans up after that. So, I started in crack on the right, and then it thins out. The guide shows a slight traverse to the left. The crack in the middle is very dirty and irregular - getting good pro sucked there. I moved to the far left crack, which had good pro but there was a ton of lichen. Which crack is the best to follow here?
hypro said on July 20th, 2011
falling rocks for sure at first shelf, dont leave dogs or other animals alone below
dustonian said on June 11th, 2012
dirty yet classic
dustonian said on June 11th, 2012
PS no need for the hanging belay. route links into 2 pitches easily.
kman154 said on May 2nd, 2013
What an awesome route. The top was a chimney was a bitch. Great climb. Very dirty.
Anonymous said on June 29th, 2014
Arthur Cammers and Byron Hempel bagged the route just yesterday. Man, June the 28th is pretty late in the season for this one. They said they had a blast on this old test piece. Awesome!
Anonymous said on June 29th, 2014
late in the season for 5.10? lol this ain't K2
caribe said on June 30th, 2014
Do the hanging belay at the last giant roof to avoid rope drag. There is a tight v-shape at the back of the OW somewhere near the beginning that will snag the rope, but this is completely avoidable if you start the last pitch with your belayer almost at the end of the last giant roof. For this last pitch finger sizes to built the belay, BD#4, and 2 BD#5 for the last pitch.
LK Day said on June 30th, 2014
Pick the first hot humid day you're free for your ascent and you'll understand what I meant about "late in the season". Ain't that right, Arthur.
kman154 said on July 1st, 2014
I am pretty sure that there are parts of this route that will send you into a flop sweat any time of the year. Some parts are just burly.
gpowellhb said on November 11th, 2014
Purposely dislodged a 1-ton boulder about 30 feet up on the first pitch last Saturday. Looked like it was a part of the wall but almost killed me and my belayer when I lightly grabbed it. Put some chalk X's on it, but decided that it would be best to knock it down so nobody dies. You can see where it exploded on the ground and a little bit away there are still several large chunks on the ground that have the X's that I put on the boulder while it was still whole haha.
nemanji said on May 16th, 2015
Wow. Best trad experience I have ever had at the red. The dihedral leading to the hanging belay is so good! Everything was way cleaner than I was expecting. "Fixed" a blue mastercam right off the ground protecting the bouldery start. Booty for whoever wants to make the effort (good luck).
gpowellhb said on May 24th, 2015
got it. two nut tools and 3 minutes of time. someone also left a brand new looking pink tricam lying on the belay ledge at the top of P1
DrRockso said on November 21st, 2016
Did not live up to the hype. Dirty, chossy first pitch leads to an awkward roof move off a ledge to start the second pitch leading to more sandy climbing, third pitch dihedral would be good but was mostly wet after drought like conditions the past month. Linked the roof to avoid the death block at the start of the roof that you're supposed to build the belay in, watch your rope drag transitioning to the offwidth, my rope got wedged behind some cam lobe's at the end of the roof. Recommend building the belay here or exercising caution linking the offwidth. 3 stars for the exposure on the roof pitch and height. Make sure you have uncut 60's for the rappel because it is every bit of 200 feet. Would recommend Day Tripping, Foxfire, or Nevermore over this one if you are looking for an adventure climb. Props to the FA's for what I'm sure were some scary leads.
Jackson_smith said on January 3rd, 2018
drrockso boi prolly wEaKsOs
DrRockso said on January 4th, 2018
Certainly a unique route for the red, worth doing after you've done all the other good multipitch in the red. Would be a 2 star climb anywhere with decent multi-pitch climbing.