Layback Crack

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Middle Small Wall

Spiderweb Tearoom


10.
+0
0 votes

Devine Climb 5.8+ (Trad) *

First Ascent: Tom Seibert, Larry Day in 1976
Length: 165ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route is located 125 feet right from The Quest past a couple of small streams and around a corner. Look for a crack and a low angle face in an obtuse arete and ending on a ledge. Climb to the ledge, walk right and continue up a dihedral to the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (1 votes)

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Comments

1
Larry Day said on February 1st, 2003
This is a cool route. It really ought to see an ascent every once in a while.
2
Jerry Bargo said on March 7th, 2003
Climbed the first pitch but as I started belaying my follower, the rope sucked back into a finger crack through a bulge. The rope drag was so bad I couldn't belay! A tightly seated nut in the right place might have prevented this spoiler.
3
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2009
Agree with Larry. Climbed this today. Lots of variety of moves, super fun. Very dirty though because not getting enough traffic. Second pitch was bushwacking all the way when it's not sandy beaches. Also, there is a nest of bumble bees at the end of the 1st pitch right after the hard-to-protect crack. Had to sneak right onto the arrete (not protectable but super easy face climbing) to get to the tree with the slings. Added a sling and a maillon.
4
Anonymous said on June 29th, 2014
Art Cammers did the Quest and Devine Climb just yesterday. Said he had a blast and that Devine Climb was "at least 4 stars". I don't know, maybe he's just all jacked up on adrenaline, but I've always said this was a fine adventure route that more people ought to check out. By the way, Arthur reports that the bees are still there. Have fun!
5
caribe said on June 29th, 2014
This route was great! Reserve your opinion if you only do the 1st pitch. The 1st is good and the 2nd pitch is a little better. I did not have the rope drag issue. There are some places where I could see that happening if proper extensions on gear are not placed. The bottom seeps a bit, get through that section and game on! You'll be gifted with a lot of varied movement. The rest spots on the route give the grade a lower feel. Despite the fact that this is 5.8 something ... it is probably not for the beginner trad climber.
6
LK Day said on December 9th, 2015
Cool, Arthur, glad you took the time to check it out. I don't imagine that de vine is still hanging at the start, is it? Man, it would be mighty old if it is.
7
caribe said on December 9th, 2015
Yes, I believe de vine was still there.