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Right Crack

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Hen's Nest

Daydreams and Nightmares


6.
+0
0 votes

Lunatic Fringe 5.8+ R (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth in 1984
Length: 75ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the obvious splitter handcrack about 50 feet right of Right Crack. Climb the crack to a slightly runout face above. Belay to the right on a ledge.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.94 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (13 votes)

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Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
ray said on January 11th, 2003
The runout on this route is towards the top and is on easy face. It's well worth it because the rest of the route is pretty cool.
2
Gothmog said on January 25th, 2003
I agree with Mr. Ellington, but would like to add that the aforementioned runout could be quite dangerous for the second climber. This is not a good top rope route. Anchors would be nice.
3
Jerry Bargo said on March 8th, 2003
Putting anchors on this route would detract from the "Lunatic Fringe" experience!
4
Yasmeen said on July 20th, 2004
The handjams on the first half of this route are great! The runout really creeped me out, but Ray's right, it's worth it for the rest of the route. Also, if your second isn't that solid on the route, there are 2 options to avoid a dangerous pendulum: 1) Lower from the last directional piece and don't do the runout portion of the route, 2) Traverse right as soon as you remove the last directional piece, and then climb up to the anchors so that you're beneath them instead of to the left of them when you finish.
5
B.J. said on April 13th, 2007
We placed some stoppers as directionals at the top of the runout section. A little sketchy seeing as how the rock is crappy, but they easily held several TR falls. The quality of the rock would make for piss poor anchors though...which is probably why they're way off to the right to begin with.
6
Myke Dronez said on July 14th, 2008
Didn't seem too R rated, sank a bomber nut about 10ft before the ledge with loads of bomber gear below that. Eliminated the pendulum by tying in long to the hangers and building my own belay anchor with a 1,2, camalot and 00 tcu that seemed quite solid. Great jammin' to the roof.
7
michaelarmand said on November 9th, 2008
I thought this climb was excellent! And I didn't see any significant concerns with the anchors, they are less than 10 ft to the right of the crack, which would not produce a dangerous pendulum for the second.
8
Smiles said on September 22nd, 2015
There's no runout on this. I placed small nuts toward the top. Enjoyed the finger lock moves.