COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Daydreams and Nightmares

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Hen's Nest

Sultans of Stem

0 votes

Finger Lickin' Good 5.10c R (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 50ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This is the splitter right-angling fingecrack about 35 feet right of Lunatic Fringe. Climb the crack until it fades and continue to the ledge on the face left of the crack.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.36 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (6 votes)

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Submitted by: Artsay
Date: Jan 4th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


ray said on January 11th, 2003
The runout on this route is after the crack ends to the anchors. The face holds are huge and if you want, you can even get a small stopper in the seam to your right and not have a runout at all.
Gothmog said on January 25th, 2003
Stellar route! Definitely worth the walk.
The Pirate said on May 19th, 2004
great finger crack
haas said on June 7th, 2005
A small nut or a .2camalot in the seam works great, not R rated
B.J. said on April 13th, 2007
Looks like this route is now CLOSED. We went to Hen's Nest today (Apr 12, 2007) and this route had been fenced off by the Forest Service for Archaeological Studies.
caribe said on June 17th, 2012
The year is now 2012. The paint is pealing on the sign that an archeological study is happening here. There are no signs that this archeological study has happened or that it will ever happen.