COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sultans of Stem

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Hen's Nest

The Edge

0 votes

Close to the Edge 5.10a R (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 3/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the face to the right of Sultans of Stem. Natural protection can be used in the pockets between the first and second bolts. Try not to blow it going for the first bolt.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.33 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (7 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


The Pirate said on May 19th, 2004
takes good gear...slightly runout going for the anchors...
Stewy911 said on April 18th, 2005
there is no gear going to the anchors I was a complete runout for me but not bad climbing. Definately worth it. There is only two bolts on it not three.
haas said on June 7th, 2005
Like Stewy said, 2 bolts, not 3
B.J. said on April 13th, 2007
Looks like this route is now CLOSED. We went to Hen's Nest today (Apr 12, 2007) and this route had been fenced off by the Forest Service for Archaeological Studies.