Atomic Cafe

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Hen's Nest

Fingers in a Light Socket


13.
+0
0 votes

Masters of the Universe 5.9+ (Trad) **

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the left-facing dihedral 40 feet right of Atomic Cafe.

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Quality Consensus
 

3 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (4 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2003
Both pitches add up to about 100 ft. Save a big piece (~ #4 Camalot) for the short offwidth at the top. Rap station on tree to the right.
2
B.J. said on April 13th, 2007
Yeah, what someone said. 60 ft is inaccurate. Easily 100ft. The chimney beneath the belay ledge is fun, the dihedral above the ledge is alright, and the face and offwidth stuff beneath the large ledge up top suck ass.
3
Danny said on April 21st, 2008
Cool route. I'd suggest bringing webbing and a quick link and making a rap anchor on a pine tree up and to the left. The current anchor is way right and the tree is almost dead.
4
dirtdog said on April 21st, 2008
had lots of fun on this route. there's some dihedral climbing, chimney climbing and little overhang to pull and then a little off-width and some dirty sections.
5
ahab said on June 17th, 2012
Wish I had read Danny's comment about the anchor before I had climbed it. That tree is FUBAR. Take his advice along with some webbing up and left at the top. You and the next masters of the universe will be thankful.
6
caribe said on June 17th, 2012
37.823019,-83.58396
7
taurusclimber said on September 21st, 2015
The Pine tree is gone. As of 9/20/15, it is lying on the rock, about to fall off the side of the cliff. There is no proper anchor at the top of this climb. I slung the dead tree, extended it near the small live tree at the top of the offwidth to equalize them as best I could, and lowered down to retrieve my gear. I enjoyed the movement, but not the "How the fuck am I going to get down?" moment.
8
Anonymous said on September 22nd, 2015
Good as a single-pitch up to bolted anchors?
9
taurusclimber said on September 23rd, 2015
The first pitch is manky in the first 10 feet, but decent climbing the rest of the way. The jams are good and the gear is good enough to fall on. The belay ledge was extremely sandy with lots of loose rock. I trundled a bit, threw off loads of sand, and made it somewhat usable. It's not clean, but it's also less of an immediate risk to climber and belayer. Be careful, because if you don't make sure the belay spot is clean, the climber will catch what is falling in the face. This climb obviously gets very little attention.
10
taurusclimber said on September 23rd, 2015
I would do the first pitch again. Fun stemming/chimney moves.