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COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Strick 9

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Wall of Denial

 Toxic Avenger

16.
+0
0 votes

Buckeye Testpiece 5.6 R (Trad) *

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler in 1990
Length: 50ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the face 10 feet right of Strick 9 to a large ledge. Rappel from the anchors on Strick 9.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
scary (1) runout (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.33 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (12 votes)

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Submitted by: Willy
Date: Sep 24th, 2012

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Comments

9 comments {add your own comments}
1
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Most scared I've ever been on a route. I'm very new to trad so I'm still learning to have confidence in my placements. Climbing a long runout on pieces you're not quite sure will hold can completely freak you out. Try to stay relaxed and just keep telling yourself, "It's only a 5.6." Maybe then you'll only slightly poop your pants.
2
Gaar said on October 25th, 2006
Lead+Pants=Poop in Pants
3
G-rock said on June 7th, 2009
very fun climbed it a few times
4
G-rock said on June 12th, 2009
got to lead it yesterday got scared goig for the top
5
michaelarmand said on June 14th, 2009
If you move right after the crack fades there is a #4 Cam placement that can mitigate the desire to "poop in the pants"...
6
toad857 said on February 21st, 2012
Features everywhere. Not as sandy as it looks from the bottom. Toprope can easily be set up (use a long extension over the ledge) after topping out Stricnine.
7
Willy said on September 24th, 2012
Pretty scary if you try to top out on lead going straight up. Ending up bailing out right and topping out by the roof
8
Anonymous said on March 25th, 2015
I chose this as my first trad route. Super awesome. If you go balls out and mantle 25ft straight up from your last placement on top of the dirt filled shelf, you will find a nice set of anchors. I would like to personally thank whomever set this route for that added bit of sketch factor. Definately got me ready for some other runout routes!!!
9
jnolte said on November 6th, 2016
New ledge anchors