Buckeye Testpiece

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Wall of Denial

Chemical Imbalance


17.
+0
0 votes

Toxic Avenger 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Neal Strickland, Hugh Loeffler in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the first bolted line to the right of Strick 9. Optional large cam at the roof. Rap from anchors on Strick 9.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4 stars (36 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (28 votes)

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Comments

1
Stewy911 said on June 9th, 2003
very runout!
2
J-Rock said on June 23rd, 2004
One of the best slab routes at the Red. Aesthetic climb with fun moves. Easier than it looks. A must do!
3
Stewy911 said on April 29th, 2005
Also dont make the mistake I did by not going to thr anchors on strick 9. I had tunnel vision and proceeded to climb up higher on top the the large boulder thinking I would see anchors. WRONG!
4
Paul3eb said on May 16th, 2005
very fun climbing though i don't understand the bolt placements that well. #3 at the roof helps as a directional.. stick-clip the first bolt!
5
Anonymous said on August 23rd, 2005
Its an old school route dumbass, before all you hang dogging, stickclipping sissys came along!
6
Ascentionist said on October 6th, 2005
Its not for you to understand Paul, just climb the route.
7
Paul3eb said on October 17th, 2005
you're right.. i recommend everyone not stick clip this and hold to the old school ethics because they're right since they were first. and we all know that the first time people do something it's always right.. just like the beatles. i didn't stick clip it and was alright but i still chock it up as one of the dumber things i've done while climbing..
8
One-Fall said on June 5th, 2006
Fantastic movement on just enough crimps to get you by.
9
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Awesome, awesome slab climbing! First couple bolts are crimpy and scary. Actually the whole thing will give you the willies cause it's rather runout!
10
bhuff04 said on October 15th, 2006
Amazing movement on beautiful crimps. Not nearly as scary or runout as these guys say it is.
11
Ascentionist said on October 16th, 2006
If you had any concept of the size of those bolts you might change your mind. Plus, those are the original bolts placed in 1992 or so. Definitely not a "sport" route.
12
fray21 said on March 14th, 2008
Actually I think it is a "sport route".
13
ahab said on May 5th, 2008
ok, the bolts are a little more "spacious" than most RRG climbs, but the clip stances are solid and you won't deck unless you have an armload out clipping the 2nd. Altough I would take Paul3eb's advice and stick-clip the 1st. For the full effect, convince yourself that you will have to pull the roof directly over head. Due to an insufficient guide book glance, i had that in the back of my head the whole time. Made the moves at least a letter grade harder.
14
aburgoon said on November 22nd, 2010
Very fun route. If anything the 4th bolt is superfluous- there is a cam placement at roughly the same height and more in line with the climbing.
15
toad857 said on February 21st, 2012
Awesome slab climbing! Maybe the best I've been on! The holds are all there, and the movement is great. The clipping stances are good enough, and an attentive belayer will keep you plenty safe. Fantastic climb.
16
Willy said on September 25th, 2012
Classic! Not all that scary either especially if you stick clip. I brought up a #3 cam but didn't see any reason to place it under the roof. Excellent movement on perfect holds on beautiful rock that stays on you til the third bolt.
17
whoneedsfeet said on September 25th, 2012
Holy shit willy said something worth while about a climb, and didn't spray. Is it true that he has checked his balls at the door and doesn't have to show how big they are anymore?
18
Willy said on September 25th, 2012
Do not force me to post more pics
19
tpowell said on March 23rd, 2014
I can't wait to come back with a stick clip/testicles so I can lead this puppy. Super fun on TR.
20
jnolte said on November 6th, 2016
Rebolted