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Blue Balls

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Wall of Denial

 The "end" of the crag

21.
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0 votes

Funhouse 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Mark Schorle, Tracy Best in 1990
Length: 100ft
Gear: Standard rack. (report bad anchors)

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This route begins in a sandy dihedral about 75 feet right of Blue Balls. Climb the dihedral to a nice crack which ends on a ledge.
Be aware of the large, loose rocks under the chains.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.9 stars (61 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (35 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 5th, 2016

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Apr 8th, 2013

Comments

12 comments {add your own comments}
1
Paul3eb said on May 16th, 2005
worth it for the view at the top. to cut down on rope drag extend the draws big time.. more fingery than hands i thought.
2
Ascentionist said on October 11th, 2005
Or top belay and rappel instead of trying to TR. Make sure to go left at the top and not right through the minefield of loose rocks.
3
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2005
The anchors were placed that way to discourage top roping!
4
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2006
There is no way this route is 70ft. The route is actually closer to 100ft. to the anchors.
5
leahanne33 said on March 14th, 2007
Great route. We had a hard time pulling our rope after rapping. I think it must be longer than 70 ft., too.
6
B.J. said on July 9th, 2007
Very fun route. Lots of variation. Fun to protect. To fight rope drag, follow Paul's advice and extend your draws when the route wanders to the right. It may be longer than 70ft, but a 60m rope is still all you'll need.
7
Josephine said on November 20th, 2007
rope drag when pulling after rapping was tough. thought we might get mine stuck! :-( also there's about 15-20 feet of black rock at the bottom which was soaking wet and it had not rained in 4 or 5 days! i'm not sure if this is always wet or if we just caught it at a bad time.
8
michaelarmand said on July 13th, 2008
Yeah, it was wet at the bottom today as well. The rest of the climb was pleasant...
9
toad857 said on February 21st, 2012
Belay from the top; rappel, don't lower. AWESOME climbing the whole way. Will do this one again.
10
rjackson said on June 27th, 2012
Great, looonnggg, sustained pitch that protects well = FUN! Use plenty of slings and no rope drag at all. There is a shifting large boulder at the anchor ledge. Be aware...
11
dustonian said on July 22nd, 2013
The photo is of Blue Balls, not Funhouse. Beware the tree dagger-spike up top at the belay ledge--better to belay up top and rap. Grear route!
12
MrFizz said on March 14th, 2014
Somewhat fragile rock in the first 20-30ft broke off a foot (need to stop eating Cheetos) and took a nice fall.