COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge


0 votes

No Return 5.9+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall, Tom Seibert in 1979
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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At the end of the approach trail you will see this wide crack in black rock. Climb the hand and fist crack to a ledge the continue up through a dihedral being careful not to pass the ledge with the anchors. Belay on the ledge to the right from bolt anchors on Commencement.
Moves: Fists
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS

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4.17 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (37 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


Anonymous said on November 20th, 2004
Exhibit #1 the Red has crack.
Anonymous said on December 29th, 2004
--and top is BEYOND the rounded ledge, to where the branch points to the rock.
Paul3eb said on April 5th, 2005
if it weren't for the supreme awkwardness of going through the buldge, this would be a classic route.. but alas, the buldge is dumb.
Gaar said on September 21st, 2005
Nice long route!
Wes said on April 6th, 2006
Cool route; kinda tricky gear.
Wes said on April 6th, 2006
Oh, and save some small gear for the belay.
J-Rock said on April 6th, 2006
I traversed to the anchors on "Commencement" and belayed there. It worked well. Fun route. I don't believe that the bugle was dumb though. My partner did ask it the average air speed velocity of an unladen African swallow and when it couldn't answer he fell. Definitely not too smart. It never even answered him.
Wes said on April 6th, 2006
Yep, thought about doing the traverse for sure, but was bringing up a 2nd that might have trouble in a couple spots, so just belayed from gear and walked over. I thought the buldge was kinda cool as well, thoughtful climbing.
ynot said on May 9th, 2006
All that black rock,it looks like it peed on itself. Climbs great! Lots of cool moves.
endercore said on February 4th, 2008
great climb, it was really heady for me. the dihedral up top was cool, but be careful placing your gear... i put a .75 in, tried to hang on it and it broke the crack it was in.
Myke Dronez said on July 6th, 2008
Crack buffet that keeps on coming, the bulge is just a tasty side dish. Stayed dry in a heavy and sustained downpour.
pkananen said on November 16th, 2008
This is a classic in my opinion. Get on it! Be careful with smaller pieces up high, gear placements are a little tricky.
ahab said on November 17th, 2008
if approached like a sport move, the bulge is without akwardness. an excellant climb, no doubt.
der uber said on December 28th, 2008
I don't climb much trad but this was a ton of fun.
mjkusn01 said on March 10th, 2014
Can you top this out... keep climbing after the bolted anchors? Make it a 2 pitch?? Thoughts?
nitrousstone said on March 6th, 2017
this has a little bit of everything!. extremely fun climb. liked it better than crack attack. My favorite 9+ in the red