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No Return

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

 Corpus Delicti

2.
+0
0 votes

Commencement 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Rob Turan in 1991
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the bolted line to the right of No Return.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
long (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.69 stars (52 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (54 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Dec 11th, 2020

Comments

22 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2004
Best kept secret. As far from 'a no move crimp ladder' as the Red is likely to get. As good (if not better) as 'Out of the Bag' at the New. Oz says "beter than bat heads"
2
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2004
What are people waiting for?
3
Paul3eb said on November 15th, 2004
the 11d part seems contrived: essentially an 11a unless you go a little right to bad, bad holds. so in that sense i'd call it an 11a (path of least resistance) with an 11d variation. the rest of it is really fun, i thought.
4
Anonymous said on November 20th, 2004
Direct is the word your looking for, not 'path of least resistance'. And just how far to the right (climber's left??) do you go to avoid the 'contrived' sequence?
5
Paul3eb said on December 20th, 2004
i'd hardly call it direct. the option for me was this: with good right hand, match awkwardly and go right (.11d way) or - from my right go high left and continue (.11a way). it was in-line with bolting and didn't threaten pendulum or anything so i don't see how it was all bad. on reciever it's not like i stay left of the last bolt to get the 13 way. i'll say again, though: fun route.
6
Stewy911 said on February 7th, 2005
This route is not 11a this is maybe 11a on the bottom, but not the top. no way
7
Anonymous said on March 5th, 2005
Nobody's got a picture? Or two?
8
Stewy911 said on May 16th, 2005
Seems like there is way too much downrating going on.............you guys might want to put this into consideration..........maybe your just getting stronger!
9
One-Fall said on September 17th, 2005
The original line the route follows goes to the right and uses the crimp crux. If you look above the 6th bolt, you will see the original set of anchors. The bolts fade to the right because that is where the FA wanted you to go.
10
Wes said on April 6th, 2006
Fun bottom, chossy middle, and an exciting finish. Didn't feel 11a to me at all (11c/d?), and I just followed the bolts and chalk.
11
512OW said on September 5th, 2006
11cish. Should have stopped at the original anchors. The bottom is great.
12
Wolf said on September 10th, 2006
How long ago did the route get extended and the new anchors put in? That top section sure was an eye opener. I really liked the moves up there.
13
jlu said on October 19th, 2006
how is this a 5.11a? freakin' hard and powerful, with very long moves between bolts.
14
Don McGlone said on December 11th, 2006
I would say 11a to the original anchors, but the upper headwall seemed a little harder to me - maybe 11c.
15
verticalturtle said on November 13th, 2007
Whew, I feel better now. I'll just consider the gade in the guide a typo. The bottom is really good, the choss...well it goes quick, and the top was a big surprise!
16
krampus said on May 18th, 2009
I didn't see the move below the first anchors that would make it harder than 11a, but the top was for sure 11c/d. Pretty cool rout either way.
17
jrathfon said on October 19th, 2009
i was told old-school 11a, i have no idea which variation i did, but felt very solid for 11a, could have been on the 11c/d variation, but then it would be soft.
18
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2009
Good route!!
19
dlewis101 said on September 5th, 2010
I just did this climb thinking, so here's my .02; I did it thinking it would be a good 11a warm-up, since that's what my older guide book said. I ended the climb thinking it was the hardest 11a I've ever done. Yes, I saw some chalked holds somewhere off line, but didn't use them because they are, well, off line. So, whatever you think of the grade, it's a great and very fun line. Call it hard 11a or easy 11d, but if you are a 11 climber, you should do this line.
20
Brentucky said on September 27th, 2010
The movement on this is 4 stars, the rock is not. I give it 4 anyway because I'm a nice guy.
21
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2012
haha ha. even after the 2004 post i never went back to look until now. the old PJ/Cs guidebook is all over this, saying that there are two variations 11a/d. funny stuff. anyway, they do not mention an 11c variation...
22
Lil Josh said on September 8th, 2013
Great climb and great view from the top.