Doppler Effect

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

Factor 2 Presents


16.
+0
0 votes

Dave the Dude 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Dave Jacobson in 1992
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet right of Doppler Effect is this bolted seam. Begin by climbing a fingercrack then move right onto a crimpy face. Crimp until the face turns blank the move left to a flake for some eye opening moves. Continue up the flake to the anchors.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
beautiful (1) vertical (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.74 stars (65 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (41 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Power2U said on June 23rd, 2003
Like the Rifleman, this route is awesome and deserves 3 stars!
2
Horatio Felacio said on June 29th, 2003
unlike the rifleman, this thing kicks ass!
3
Stewy911 said on March 3rd, 2004
this route is a must do, i give it 1400 stars!
4
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2004
yea the move at the top is not that bad just long, once u hgave the jug have fun getting to the next bolt. whip whip whip!
5
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2004
Classic. Good feet disappear after sequential 'crux'. Irregular crack, face, steep oblique jugs.
6
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
great route that's just fun. i'm about 5'7" -8" and the crux clip isn't bad to get for me but a lot of people struggle with it and hang a long draw. not enough good things can be said about it..
7
merrick said on November 4th, 2005
best route ever, three completely different sections, all interesting, and beautiful rock
8
TVA said on June 15th, 2007
fun. technical footwork and then a few powerful lieback moves. i got tricked on the technical section. will have to try it again someday.
9
ruetut said on March 21st, 2008
Do people go left or right at that blank section?
10
SCIN said on March 21st, 2008
I went left.
11
ekrause9 said on April 9th, 2013
Favorite line at this cliff! Going left early to the flake is quite an eye-opener. Also, the right anchor bolt is nearing the end of its days.
12
Mila said on June 16th, 2013
Loved the line. The crux had deserved another bolt though. Like this, the route is reserved for climbers who easily send 5.12s.
13
caribe said on November 8th, 2015
►A large circular rust stain indicated that the freely spinning hanger of right bolt of the anchor system has been corroding behind the bolt. Furthermore the anchor bolts are horizontal inline in the same sedimentary layer which can compromise redundancy. ►Two glue-in Wave Bolts were placed, one above and another to the right of the corroding bolt. The chain that accompanied this fix will be replaced with more aesthetic hardware soon and the offending hanger on the right will be removed. These fixes provide redundant anchorage for Dave the Dude.
14
Jeff said on November 10th, 2016
Art, did you do the rebolt? If so, thanks for the work. No way to say this without sounding like an ass, but the way the route stands now, it looks horrible. Those studs should be able to be hammered flush then tapped on with something slightly larger to sink them below surface of rock. A little epoxy/putty with some crushed (fine) rock on top and it will look good.
15
Anonymous said on November 10th, 2016
Me Sweeney and Chip did the rebolt, the grinder ran outta juice that day, meet us up there tomorrow and you can help us crank those intolerable bastard studs out, thank you for your concern
16
Jeff said on November 10th, 2016
Well, like I said, thanks for the work. It's much appreciated. Gotta work tomorrow, sorry I can't help.
17
caribe said on November 10th, 2016
Yeah, no offense taken. I know the old bolts I left there looked like shit. I was going to return to clean things up. Never got the inclination to do so. Sorry.
18
Anonymous said on November 10th, 2016
We beat the snot out of those old studs with no luck in sinking them down. If the weather stopped being so amazing I'd have been back there to finish it up by now. Will do so shortly - Will
19
caribe said on November 12th, 2016
That makes me feel better. Battery powered grinder is the only hope.
20
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2016
Old studs have been chopped -Willy