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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Shelter From the Storm

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

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20.
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Soul Ram 5.12b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Rob Turan in 1991
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move left from Shelter From the Storm over some large boulders to a blunt arete. Begin on a ledge a few feet off the ground. Clip the first bolt then move left around the arete onto the extreme face. Crimp and high step for 90 feet while trying to keep your sanity.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold Shuts-60m rope required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
classic (1) crimpy (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.85 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (29 votes)

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25 comments {add your own comments}
1
ATLdude said on May 22nd, 2003
awesome- perfect stone, great moves
2
Astroman said on March 5th, 2004
Classic.
3
Wes said on April 4th, 2005
Best sport route on the wall? Felt hard for .12b. Classic for sure.
4
Power2U said on October 29th, 2005
One of the best vert. routes around, period!
5
pigsteak said on October 31st, 2005
agreed..one of my top 10 at the Red.
6
J-Rock said on November 1st, 2005
Just curious how this works. If Porter called it a 12c, his guidebook called it a 12c, and the consensus of the climbing community says it a 12c... then why was it changed to a 12b?
7
Anonymous said on February 26th, 2006
because it's .12b in the porter guide.
8
Wes said on February 27th, 2006
It might be .12b in the guide, but it feels like .12d on the rock, but a killer line. Every aspiring mid 12 and up sport climber needs to get on this route.
9
J-Rock said on February 27th, 2006
Hey someone, it is not 12b in the Porter guide. Check again. On page 40 it is 12c, on page 41 it is 12c, on page 42 it is 12c, and on page 91 it is 12c, and on page 93 it is 12c.
10
chouca said on November 5th, 2006
maybe the admin can change the grade?
11
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2007
I think this is my favorite line I've completed in the Red. Aesthetically pleasing in both appearence and in movement. A true masterpiece.
12
ray said on January 13th, 2008
Harder than Orange Juice (12c) but not as hard as Zen and the Art of Masturbation (12d)
13
SCIN said on January 13th, 2008
The comments above are true. It is 12c in Porter/Snyd's book. 12c makes more sense.
14
Anonymous said on January 18th, 2008
This route is known as .12b because it is a classic example of absurd sandbagging. everyone knows it's more like .12c, definitely more like .12c than most .12d's that have been put up recently. part of it's classic nature is that it's an abnormal (by red standards) climb that is sandbagged making it even more difficult for the grade. It's one of those routes that's like "ooo you got on soul ram, i heard that's really hard." I would advocate leaving the grade at .12b for that reason.
15
SCIN said on January 19th, 2008
I'd definitely be open to leaving it at 12b if I can be sure that the 12b rating for it that first appeared in John Bronaugh's guidebook wasn't a typo. I mean, if Porter gave it 12c in his own guidebook and it's his route wouldn't that mean it is really 12c and John typoed it when he added it to his guidebook? I guess I could contact Porter and ask him to be sure. A sandbag is cool but not when it's a typo on the guidebook author's part.
16
Anonymous said on January 23rd, 2008
understandable, ray.
17
camhead said on April 1st, 2008
This is my favorite route at the red right now; I got on it after heavy rain a couple weeks ago, and there was no chalk on the slab anywhere; it almost felt like climbing a new route. Cool. I also think that this route just has a reputation for being a sandbag because RRG climbers are too used to steep stuff. It felt right on for old-school, techy, Smith rock-styled 12a/b to me.
18
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2009
Incredible climbing. I feel like most granite face climbing areas would give this 12b, but things are a little different in the Red I guess.
19
SCIN said on February 7th, 2010
Decided to keep it at 12b for the 3rd edition guidebook so I'm dropping it back to 12b. Never heard whether the 12c in Porter's book was a misprint or if it was Bronaugh's book that was a misprint.
20
dustonian said on February 7th, 2010
12b/c?
21
krampus said on February 22nd, 2010
we should just downgrade everything. If this is 12b then orange juice should be 12a
22
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2011
12b, also, HEN-RY is 11a.
23
climb2core said on November 28th, 2011
Kick ass, ass kicking climb. Old school for sure! If this was at Muir it would have 16 bolts and be 12d. This is a climb that will get your palms sweating just thinking about it. Takes committment to head off towards the next bolt! Really just need to call it 12c though.
24
pumpout2004 said on January 23rd, 2012
Has always been my favorite route name, figured I needed to do it too. Fantastic climb.
25
symardila said on June 5th, 2012
awesome line. the 12b that has taken me the most tries ever