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Frugal Chariot

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

Joe Camel

0 votes

Smokin' Joe 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tim Cornette in 1996
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted route begins near a crumbly fingercrack 5 feet right of Frugal Chariot.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area

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Quality Consensus

3.84 stars (69 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (59 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


merrick said on October 31st, 2005
really nice route...if you are short stick the first bolt from the block. the first moves are pretty hard and you are 25 feet up when you start. tall people can reach the bolt to hang the draw from the top of the block.
Wes said on October 31st, 2005
Sweet route. As good as the infidel, just a couple grades easier.
jlu said on June 1st, 2008
really fun route with a fun balance move crux at the 4th bolt. once you move past it, fight past the pump for 11a climbing to the send!
FujManiac said on November 14th, 2008
mike_anderson said on November 13th, 2009
Seemed about the same as Infidel to me.
ahab said on November 13th, 2009
are you saying that the infidel is 11b, or that joe is 11d? i guess it doesn't matter because there's no effing way these 2 climbs are the same grade...
mike_anderson said on November 17th, 2009
I'm inclined to say 'Joe is more like 11d, but I don't really specialize in 5.11s, so I can't say for sure what the grade is, only that the two routes felt similar by comparison.
crayon said on November 22nd, 2009
Better movement than Frugal Chariot down low but a less exciting finish to be sure.
Anonymous said on February 8th, 2010
hey mike Ahole....lick my balls. go back to all about youtah and get some moremen to take the edge off that jagged ass. bite the bullet honey
nik said on May 8th, 2012
definitely second the person who said to stick-clip the first bolt from the block if you can't reach. if you're getting on this climb, you'll probably get those moves, but at 30ish feet up, why risk it (unless you're into that sort of thing). also, the "solo" up to the block was kind of awesome. easy, but made me feel adventurous. also, tough crux!!!
der uber said on October 15th, 2012
This is a fantastic route. Movement is especially good on the vertical face, and I wish there was some more business up top. Quality rock once you get off the sandy pinnacle.
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2017
This is a neat route! BUT...I totally confused this route for Picador at the Arsenal!!! LOL we totally got confused on the approach too! Fortunately, Rick brought carrot cakes and we at them with joy at the bottom. - Yasmeen
Mdjagg said on March 2nd, 2020
Cant say enough good things about this route. Perfect warm up for the harder climbs here, and perfect rock the whole climb. Amazing holds throughout, great movement, and just cruxy enough in one section to get the 11b. Must do.