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Veldhaus Route

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

Sparky Goes Crack Climbing

0 votes

Eye of the Needle 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Neal Strickland in 1992
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk around the corner from Veldhaus Route to locate this bolted arete just left of a wide dihedral.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area

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Quality Consensus

4.37 stars (101 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (83 votes)

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Submitted by: donargento
Date: Dec 19th, 2011

Submitted by: Dman
Date: Feb 3rd, 2009

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


rdpoints said on April 20th, 2005
V10Mike said on May 2nd, 2008
Staying absolutely true to the arete from the ground up is significantly harder. Use the crack on the right for the first couple clips to keep it a reasonable 5.11
Lander said on May 3rd, 2008
the route was originally climbed and rated based on using the right crack to get to the first bolt. btw, the second bolt was originally the first bolt! the current first bolt was added later.
michaelarmand said on June 23rd, 2008
Great climb, love the technical!
heavyc said on September 24th, 2008
one of the best 11's in the Red
Jrodan said on September 28th, 2008
The "eye" is currently inhabited by flying squirrels.
FujManiac said on October 16th, 2008
there are actually two eyes...
bcombs said on October 27th, 2008
Super good
Dman said on January 4th, 2009
i agree one of the best classic for sure
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2011
Re bolted, chain anchors.
dustonian said on March 23rd, 2011
Nice work Jeff, love this route!
Jeff said on March 23rd, 2011
It's a great one! Tim wondered about the condition of the bolts as he remembered using some stainless on it. All SS hardware was in great shape. One was a spinner and I had no wrench on hammer day so replaced it. Left one on the route, near the top, just after the break and before the slight buldge. Call it a historical tribute.
Chuckdott said on October 11th, 2011
Although it sounds like the route was intended to use the crack, the left arrete has by far the most interesting moves on the route up to the first "eye" at the 3rd bolt. If you like technical slab I highly recommend avoiding the crack all together.
der uber said on October 15th, 2012
Super fun as you transition towards and climb the arete. Thought the middle was tricky.
Chiyram said on September 21st, 2015
5 Star route! Definitely want to use the crack for the first 2 or 3 bolts if you want to climb an 11b.
slander said on April 4th, 2016
Total classic. Not using the crack down low makes it a harder route (11c, maybe low d) but was my favorite movement on the whole thing.
thermalfissions said on April 4th, 2016
Using the crack makes this route feel 11a at best, staying on the arete at the start is probably harder than 11b. You can climb the slab, the arete or the face at the top for an easy, moderate or hard finish respectively. Whatever line you choose, great route.
Anonymous said on January 12th, 2021
No hands rest at the eye...if ya know what I mean